JAMS and JELLIES are conserves of the pulp and juice of succulent and juicy fruits prepared by boiling with sugar. They differ from each other only in the fact that jam is a thick pulpy opaque preparation, sometimes of the entire fruit—rind, pulp, and kernel—and sometimes of fruits only partly broken, as in the case of black currant jam, while jellies are pure transparent gelatinous preparations of juices alone. The preparation of these preserves was formerly a purely domestic art; but of recent years manufactures of very large dimensions have sprung up for the preservation of many of the commoner fruits, as an example of which the marmalade trade may be cited, marmalade being simply a form of jam. The principal fruits commonly used for jam-making are varieties of plums, apricots, cherries, black currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, mulberries, cranberries, oranges, and quinces; rhubarb stalks are also employed. Jellies have a wider signification than is comprehended in the above definition, which embraces fruit jellies alone, as many jellies have for their basis isinglass and other gelatinyielding bodies of animal origin, and starches also form with boiling water a kind of jelly. Fruit jellies owe their property of gelatinizing to the presence or development of a gummy principle in their composition, called pectin. Except in its gelatinizing effect pectin is in no way related to gelatin, being indeed a non-nitrogenous body closely allied to cellulose. Pectin is only found in very ripe fruits, but an allied body, pectose, which is abundant in growing and partially ripened fruits, is easily transformed into pectin by the action of heat, and such a transformation takes place in the boiling of the juices of acid unripe fruits. In the preparation of ...jellies it is essential to obtain the juices as free from all pulp and cloudiness as possible, therefore the less the fruits are squeezed the more transparent will be the resulting jelly. To get the juice to flow freely from hard fruits it is necessary in most cases to heat and in some instances to boil them. The quantity of sugar required for the preservation of jams and jellies varies from two-thirds to equal weight of the fruit or juice, and the boiling should be conducted at a gentle heat as short a time as possible after the addition of the sugar, which by long or violent boiling tends to become syrupy, this destroying the gelatinizing property. Jellies are principally prepared from red, white, and black currants, gooseberries, grapes, apples, raspberries, cherries, bilberries, pomegranates, quinces, and various other juicy fruits. Jams and jellies for preservation are poured into earthenware jars; the surface of the preserves is then covered with a disk of paper dipped in brandy, and the jar tightly tied over with membrane or gummed paper, and stored in a cool dry situation. They must be prepared from clean dry fruit, and it is essential that cane and not beet sugar should be used for their preservation. Wet or otherwise damaged fruit, and all fruits preserved with beet sugar, are peculiarly subject to mouldiness, an evil against which some amount of precaution is necessary at all times. The domestic uses of these preparations, and the esteem in which they are held, are known universally. They have a refrigerating and gently laxative influence, and the citrate, malate, or tartrate salts they contain give them a positive value as anti-scorbutics, in addition to the pleasant and refreshing taste and flavour they possess. While these preserves have the same anti-scorbutic efficacy as the respective fresh fruits from which they are prepared, they are free from the tendency to induce choleraic disorders which frequently attends the consumption of uncooked fruits, and the sugar with which they are prepared possesses its own proper nutritive value as an article of food.
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