BRECON, or Brecknockshire, an inland county in South Wales. Its greatest length from south to north is about 53 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west about 46 miles. It possesses an area of 719 square miles, or 460,158 acres, and is thus the fourth largest county in Wales. It is said to have derived its name from Brychan, a Welsh prince, who flourished in the fifth century.
The Old Red Sandstone is the principal geological formation in this county, and occupies the whole of the central portion from east to west. Along the southern boundary there extends a narrow belt of carboniferous limestone, millstone grit (“farewell rock” of the miners), and the outcrop of the coal beds,—together forming the northern rim of the coal measures in the great South Wales coal-field. At Clydach in Llanelly, Brynmawr, Hirwaun, and a few other places on the south-eastern border of the county, there are extensive iron-works. The narrow projecting part of the county to the north, lying between Radnor and Cardigan, is occupied by the Upper and Lower Silurian beds; and there is a somewhat singular narrow peninsula of the former projecting into the Red Sandstone for a distance of ten miles, in a S. W. direction, and terminating at about five miles north of the town of Brecon. A belt of limestone extends from the town of Hay on the east, and passing in a S.W. direction through the town of Brecon, terminates at the Brecknockshire Van. A prominent band extends along the border of the Old Red Sandstone on the N.W., where it joins the Silurian beds....
The general aspect of the county is mountainous, and the scenery is marked by beauty and grandeur. A chain of the loftiest mountains in South Wales completely encircles the south, composed in the east of the Black Mountains, 2545 feet in height, and the curious Sugar Loaf rising to the height of 1760 feet. On the west of Brecknockshire are the Van and Talsarn mountains 2596 feet, and Mount Capellante 2394 feet in height; while the centre of the crescent is occupied by the masses of the Brecknockshire Beacons, the highest point of which, Cader Arthur, or Arthur’s Chair, attains an altitude of 2910 feet. In the north, a range of barren hills, called Mynydd Bwlch Qroes at the most westerly end and Mynydd Epynt towards the east, enters the boundary of the county at a short distance from Llandovery in Carmarthenshire, and extending in a N.E. direction, terminates near Builth.
Of the valleys the most distinguished for beauty is that of the Usk, stretching from east to west, and dividing the county into two nearly equal portions. The Wye is the chief river, and forms the boundary on the N. and N.E. from Rhayader to Hay, a distance of upwards cf twenty miles; while the Towy, the Afon Claerwen, and the Elan separate the county from Cardigan and Radnor on the N.W. and N. The Usk rises in the Carmarthenshire Van on the west, and flowing in a direction nearly due east through the centre of the county, collects the waters from the range of the Beacons in the south, and from Mynydd Bwlch Groes and Mynydd Epynt in the north, by means of numerous smaller streams (of which the Tarell and the Honddu are the most important), and enters the county of Monmouth near Abergaveny. The Taff, the Hepstau, and the Tawe, all rise on the south of the Beacon range, and pass ing through Glamorganshire, flow into the British Channel.
Llyn Safaddu, Llangorse Lake, or Breckinioc Mere, the largest lake in South Wales, is situated at the foot of the Black Mountains, and within the county. It covers an extent of nearly 1800 acres, and is about two miles long by one mile broad. Upon an artificial island in the lake traces of habitations raised on piles have lately been discovered, together with the bones of red deer, wild boar, and Bos longtfrons. Tradition affirms that beneath the lake is a submerged town, which has been rashly identified with the Roman station Loventium.
The climate is moist, but temperate and salubrious; and the soil of the valleys, often consisting of rich alluvial deposits, is very fertile. The cultivated crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, rye, turnips, pease, potatoes, and vetches; of these the greater part is consumed within the county. The uplands are chiefly in pasture, and are stocked with sheep, cattle, and ponies, which with wool, butter, and oak-bark, form the staple of a considerable trade with the adjoining English counties, and with the iron districts lying to the south. The farms are generally small, but are well cultivated in the lower parts of the county. The highland occupiers are a very humble, hard-working class of men. It is calculated that about two-thirds of the lands in the county are enclosed.
Breconshire is intersected by the Mid Wales, Brecon, and Merthyr Railway, and a branch of the London and North-Western, by means of which there is ready communication with all parts of the kingdom.
The principal towns are Brecon, Builth, Crickhowel, and Hay. The county returns one member to parliament, and has done so since 1536. The political influence is chiefly in the hands of Lord Tredegar and Sir Joseph Bailey. Constituency in 1875, 3574. Rents in the valley of the Usk and around Brecon are high, but on the mountain lands very low; it would be deceptive to give an average per acre. The annual value of real property paying income-tax is £316,208. The population of the county by the last census was 59,901, giving an average of 83 persons to a square mile, or 7 - 68 acres to each person. Of the total number 29,928 were males, and 29,973 females. The number of inhabited houses was 12,617, giving an average of 17 ’ 5 inhabited houses to a square mile, and 4 ’ 7 persons to each house. The following returns show an increase of population amounting to 34 per cent, during the last fifty years :— [table]
The Welsh laüguage is still that of the peasantry and middle class, and the members of the Church of England are largely out-numbered by the Baptists, Calvinistic Methodists, and Independents.
Brecknockshire formed part of the territory of the Silures, and its occupation by the Romans could never have been very complete. After their expulsion the district (Brycheiniog') was ruled by native princes and was the scene of many a border struggle. Many of the castles which are scattered over its eastern border had their origin at this period; and some of them may be regarded as advanced posts erected by the English during the wars which preceded the formation of Offa’s Dyke. Subsequently, when Bernard de Newmarch and his Norman followers obtained possession of the country, they were converted into regular fortresses, by which the neighbourhood was kept in awe, and the mountain passes defended. The district between Brecon and Builth was the scene of the last struggle between the English and Llewelyn in 1282, when the Welsh chieftain was defeated and slain. Since that date Breconshire has not been associated with any important historical events, unless we include among them the raids of Owen Glyndwr. It formed part of the Welsh Marches until their union with England in 1532. Among the eminent natives of the county may be mentioned Sir David Gam (Shakspeare’s Fluellen), who lost his life at Agincourt while defending Henry V.; the ill-fated Henry Stafford, duke of Buckingham; JohnPenry (“Martin Marprelate ”); Henry Vaughan, the poet; Dr Hugh Price, founder of Jesus College, Oxford; Thomas Howel, bishop of Bristol (less known than his brother, the letter writer); Theo. J ones, historian of the county; and Mrs Siddons.
Brecon, or Brecknock, the capital of the county of the same name, a market and borough town, 145 miles N. by W. from London, picturesquely situated in a fine open valley, at the confluence of the Honddu and Tarell with the Usk, and nearly in the centre of the county. It is supposed to occupy the site of the Roman station Bannium, but it is more probable that it was partly constructed with materials drawn from that spot, which lies to the W. of the present town, on the Via Julia Montana. There are three main streets, with several smaller ones. The houses are for the most part constructed of stone, and are generally well built. Brecon has a fine cruciform church (Early English in style), which has been restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. There are two other churches, and two Independent, two Baptist, and one Calvinistic Methodist chapel. The corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, four aidermen, and twelve councillors. The borough has returned one member to parliament since 1536. Constituency in 1875, 813. The assessed taxes yield annually £1259, and the annual value of real property paying income-tax is £24,941. There are weekly markets, and several fairs in the course of the year. The quarter sessions and assizes are held here. Brecon has a foundation called the College of Christ Church, of which the bishop of St David’s is ex officio dean, but after the death of its present officers its revenues will devolve to the ecclesiastical commissioners and be appropriated to ecclesiastical uses. The ruins of the ancient castle are enclosed in the beautiful grounds of the Castle Hotel, and though unimportant in themselves, derive an interest from their connection with the Fitzwalters, de Braoses, de Bohuns, and Staffords, successive lords of Brecon. The principal fragment now remaining is Ely Tower, so called from its having formed the prison of Morton, bishop of Ely, where he concerted with his custodian, Henry Stafford, duke of Buckingham, the dethronement of Richard III., and the union of the houses of York and Lancaster. There are some fine Roman and other remains in the immediate vicinity. Population of municipality in 1871, 5845; inhabited houses, 1172.
[1,683 words — estimated reading time: 10 minutes]
