LANARK, an inland county of Scotland, lies between 55° 15' and 55° 57' N. lat., and between 3° 20' and 4° 23' W. long., and is bounded N. by Dumbarton and Stirling, E. by Stirling, Linlithgow, Midlothian, and Peebles, S. by Dumfries, and W. by Ayr, Renfrew, and Dumbarton. Its greatest length north-west to south-east is over 50 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west over 30 miles. The total area comprises 568,868 acres, or 888 square miles. Though only the twelfth as regards extent, it stands far above all the other Scottish counties in point of population, having 904,405 inhabitants in 1881, or only 18,909 less than the aggregate of the three counties that rank next to it.
The greater part of the county to the east and south, included in what is known as the upper ward, consists of high moorlands frequently rising into lofty rounded hills, in many cases more .than 2000 feet above sea-level, the highest summits being Coulter Fell (2456) and Tinto (2350) in Carmichael parish, and Green Louther (2403), Five Cairn Louther (2377), Queensberry Hill (2285), Sergeant Law (2257), and several others in Crawford parish, which consists chiefly of a cluster of mountains. The highest inhabited land in Scotland is at Leadhills, a village in the southern extremity of the county, which is about 1300 feet above sea-level. The remainder of the county to the north-west of Tinto softens down to gentle undulations, never rising to an elevation of more than 700 feet, and gradually opening out into the fertile vale of Clyde....
The principal river is the Clyde, which is formed of several streams rising among the mountains that separate Lanark from Peebles and Dumfries near to the sources of the Tweed and Annan, the chief of these streams being the Crook Burn, Powtrail Water, and Elvan Water. Running almost north, the river is joined by the Glengonner Burn, the Duneaton Water, and other streams; after receiving the Medwyn near Carstairs it flows south-west, and then, on being joined by the Douglas Water, it turns abruptly to the north-west—its general direction for the rest of its course. At Bonnington, the first of the famous falls of Clyde, the banks slope gently downwards, and are adorned with lofty trees and leafy shrubbery. The river widens as it reaches the fall, and its course remains uninterrupted until it suddenly descends a precipice 27 feet in height in a broad and unbroken stream. From this point it rolls turbulently along between lofty and precipitous banks of sandstone rocks beautified with wood until it reaches the magnificent fall of Corra, where it rushes over a precipice 85 feet in height into the deep abyss of the linn. Through a deep ravine it reaches a small fall called Dundaff Linn, and after passing a singular piece of rock called “Wallace’s Chair,” skirts New Lanark and the county town of Lanark. Shortly afterwards it receives the Mouse, which, dashing and foaming from the split rocks of Cartland Crags, adds to the volume of the stream and contributes at the precipice of Stonebyres to form the fourth fall of Clyde. Near the ruins of Craignethan Castle it receives the Nethan, and a little further on the Avon, and then sweeps through the richly wooded haughs of Hamilton past Bothwell to Glasgow, where it becomes navigable. The lochs are few and small, the principal being Bishop Loch between the parishes of Cadderand Old Monkland, Black Loch in New Monkland, and Johnston Loch in Cadder. The Hillend reservoir for supplying the Forth and Clyde and the Monkland Canals has an area of 307 acres. The Forth and Clyde Canal traverses the north-west corner of the county; the Monkland Canal connects Glasgow with the southern extremity of Old Monkland parish; and the Ardrossan Canal passes by Govan to Renfrew and Ayr.
Geology and Minerals.— Lanarkshire is nearly wholly occupied by the Carboniferous strata forming the coal-field of the Clyde basin. This is almost entirely confined to the county, but portions of it extend into Dumbartonshire, Renfrewshire, and Stirlingshire. The formation rests on traps and ashes associated with the Lower Calciferous Sandstones, which towards the east separate the coal-field from that of the Lothians, and in the west from that of Ayr. The middle portion of the formation, which contains the best coal-seams with blackband and other ironstones, is without limestone, and apparently of freshwater origin, although a bed of marine fossils has been detected in the series near Glasgow. Towards the border on all sides a lower marine series with encrinal and coralline limestones crops out. It also contains many valuable coal-seams and veins of ironstone, and, while affording a great variety of marine fossils, possesses a few interpolated beds of estuarine or freshwater origin. The line of junction between this lower series and the Old Red Sandstone occurs in the vicinity of the Falls of Clyde, Lanark, and Carstairs. Besides the older trap rocks, which bound the field to the east and west, others, probably of the same age as the Upper Carboniferous series, rise through and disturb the strata of the interior in many places; and numerous basaltic dykes, which, however, are generally unconnected with faults in the strata, extend through the area of the coal-field in an easterly direction. These, like the other erupted masses, usually alter the strata with which they come into contact, converting coal into coke and clay into jasper, and highly indurating the shales and sandstones. The isolated coal-field of Lesmahagow, about 7 miles square, is nearly surrounded by Old Red Sandstones, upon which also the coal rests.
The amount of coal available in the Lanark coal-field is estimated at 2,044,090,216 tons, slightly less than that in the Midlothian coalfield, and less than a fourth of that available in Scotland. The mines lie scattered over a considerable area, but the principal coalpits are in the districts between Glasgow, Hamilton, and Airdrie. The coal-field is perhaps best developed in the neighbourhood of Hamilton, the seam being rich and easily reached; and the famous Wishaw “ell coal” is there found in its best state. There is a valuable seam of gas coal at Lesmahagow; this is also frequently associated with blackband ironstone. The number of shafts or pits from which minerals were raised in 1880 was 452, and connected with these 25,882 persons were employed underground and 5355 on the surface. The gross amount of minerals raised was 11,071,054 tons, nearly one-half of the whole amount raised in Scotland. The total amount of coals raised was 10,026,999 tons, of ironstone 757,291, of fireclay 195,419, of oil shale 28,830, of limestone 59,419, of lead ore 1801, and of gannister 1295. The lead-mines are at Leadhills in the parish of Crawford. From the ore silver to the extent of 6 to 12 oz. to the ton is obtained. Copper-ore is found in the mines, and also antimony, but the quantity does not repay the cost of mining. The gold-mines are said to have been discovered in the reign of James IV., and it is stated that in 1542 as many as 300 persons were employed in connexion with the industry, and that upwards of £100,000 sterling value was collected. The gold-field extends over an area of 25 miles by 12, but it is only in the neighbourhood of the lead-mines that gold is found in considerable quantity. It does not, however, repay the labour of search and washing. Freestone and sandstone are abundant.
Agriculture.— The upper ward of Lanarkshire consists principally of moorland, even where the land is not too elevated to admit of successful tillage. The climate of this district is variable, and the rainfall considerable. Wheat is grown in the lower valleys, but the cereals best adapted for those portions of the district where grain is cultivated are oats and barley. In the higher grounds potatoes and Scotch kail are almost the only vegetables grown. Some portions of this district, on the borders of the Clyde, are however, very fruitful. The feeding of cattle and dairy and sheep farming are largely followed. Generally twenty-five to thirty cows are kept, but on some farms most attention is directed to the rearing of cattle or sheep. Several large sheep farms are occasionally held by one tenant. In the middle ward the land is generally strong clay, with the exception of the alluvial deposits on the banks of the Clyde. A large portion of it is occupied by peat, and the presence of coal-pits has in many instances deteriorated the soil. In this district oats and barley are the principal crop. The banks of the Clyde have been occupied with orchards since the days of the Venerable Bede. Apples, pears, and plutos are largely grown, but of late years more attention has been paid to gooseberries, currants, and strawberries. The district of the lower ward is much exposed to westerly breezes, but though humid is warm, severe frosts being seldom of long duration. It is very highly cultivated, its proximity to Glasgow having greatly stimulated improvements.
The following table gives a classification of holdings in 1875 and 1880 [table]
The largest farms are in the upper ward, where they generally vary from 100 to 500 acres, although the largest number are between 100 and 200 acres.
According to the agricultural returns for 1881 the total area under crops was 247,777 acres, a percentage of 43'5, the percentage in 1870 being 41'8. The area under corn crops was 50,975 acres; under green crops, 19,578; rotation grasses, 63,361; permanent pasture, 113,407. The area under woods was 18,780 acres; orchards, 531; market gardens, 310; and nursery grounds, 39. Of corn more than four-fifths of the area was under oats, which in 1881 occupied 44,982 acres, while only 3790 were under wheat, 1408 beans, and 682 barley. Potatoes were grown on 9427 acres, turnips and swedes on 8552, and vetches on 1321.
The total number of horses in 1881 was 7755, of which 5611 are stated to be used solely for purposes of agriculture, and 2144 to be unbroken horses and mares kept for breeding purposes. The celebrated Clydesdale draught horses are supposed to have been bred from Flanders horses, imported in the 17th century by one of the dukes of Hamilton. The number of cows in 1881 was 33,730, of other cattle two years of age and above 10,989, and under two years of age 19,557. The average number of cattle to every 100 acres under cultivation was 25 - 9, the average for Scotland being 23. The cows are principally the Ayrshire breed, but there is also a cross between the Ayrshire and the improved Lanark. The best cheese is made in the Carnwath and Lesmahagow districts. Sheep in 1881 numbered 208,632, an average of 84 - 2 to every 100 acres under cultivation, the average for Scotland being 141 - 3. Pigs, which are largely kept by the coal-miners, numbered 5796.
According to the owners and heritages return, 1872-73, the land was divided among 9717 proprietors, and amounted to 553,097 acres, with a gross annual value, including minerals, of £1,736,268. Of the owners 7927, or 81 per cent., possessed less than 1 acre, and the average value per acre was £3, 2s. 9d. There were seven proprietors who owned upwards of 10,000 acres, viz., the countess of Home, 61,943 acres; the duke of Hamilton, 45,731 acres; Sir Simon Macdonald Lockhart, 31,556; Sir Thomas E. Colebrooke, 29,604; the earl of Hopetoun, 19,180; Sir Windham Anstruther, 13,624; and A. D. R. W. Baillie Cochrane (now Lord Lamington), 10,833. The duke of Buccleuch possessed 9091 acres, and Colonel Buchanan 8549.
Manufactures.—In 1879 there were 314 iron-works, 5149 puddling furnaces, and 846 rolling mills. These are chiefly situated in the neighbourhood of Airdrie, Coatbridge, Wishaw, Lesmahagow, and Glasgow. The principal other manufactures—cotton, flax, and silk—are connected chiefly with Glasgow, to which article the reader is also referred for details regarding shipping and shipbuilding.
Railways.—Both the North British and the Caledonian systems have numerous lines and branches, both for general traffic and for minerals, supplying the county generally with ample railway communication.
Population.—Owing to the rapid development of the manufacturing and mining industries of the county, and especially to the fact that a great portion of Glasgow is included within its limits, the increase of the population since the beginning of the century has been very great. From 147,692 in 1801 it had increased in 1831 to 316,819, in 1851 to 530,169, in 1871 to 765,339, and in 1881 to 904,405, of whom 449,192 were males and 455,213 females. The county includes the greater part of the parliamentary burgh of Glasgow (population in 1881,487,948), and the parliamentary burghs of Airdrie (13,363), Hamilton (13,997), Lanark (4908), and Rutherglen (11,265). Glasgow, Lanark, and Rutherglen are also royal burghs, and in addition to Airdrie and Hamilton the police burghs are Biggar (1556) in the upper ward; Wishaw (13,112) and Motherwell (12,911) in the middle ward; and Govan (49,448), Hillhead (6683), Maryhill (12,916), Partick (27,396), and Govanhill (9634) in the lower ward immediately adjoining Glasgow. The other towns are Bailieston, Bellshill, part of Busby, Calderbank, Cambuslang, Carluke, Coatbridge (population 18,425), Holytown, Larkha∏, Lesmahagow, Newmains, Shettleston, Stonehouse, Strathaven, and Whifflet. There are also over seventy villages, the majority numbering over 500 inhabitants, and very many over 1000.
Administration.—The county comprises forty-nine parishes and two parts of parishes. For purposes of county taxation it is divided into an upper, a middle, and a lower ward, and the middle ward has also been lately divided into two districts for police purposes. The coünty is represented in parliament by two members, one for the northern division and one for the southern division. The city of Glasgow returns three members, while Lanark, Hamilton, and Airdrie are included in the Falkirk district of burghs, and Rutherglen in the Kilmarnock district. A sheriff ordinary court is held at Glasgow, and sheriff courts are held at Lanark, Airdrie, and Hamilton.
History and Antiquities.—Lanarkshire at an early period was inhabited by a Celtic tribe, the Damnii, whose territory was divided by the Roman wall of Antonine between the Forth and Clyde, but none of whom were ever fully subdued by the Romans. Traces of these early inhabitants are still to be seen in remains of fortifications, mounds, and circles; and numerous stone axes, bronze celts, hand-mills, and urns belonging to the same period have also been dug up. Two Roman roads entered the county from Dumfriesshire, and after their junction near Crawford proceeded by Biggar, Carstairs, and Carluke, being joined at several points by others. Along the route of the roads there are many traces of camps and fortifications, and coins and other relics are frequently found. After the departure of the Romans, a district of country which included Lanarkshire was united into the kingdom of Strathclyde, which in the 7th century was subdued by the Saxons of Northumberland, large numbers, however, of the Celtic population migrating to AVales. Formerly Lanarkshire included a portion of Renfrew, but this was disjoined in the time of Robert III. Lanark at the same time was divided into two wards, the over and the nether, with Lanark and Rutherglen as the chief towns in each ward. The division into three wards—upper, middle, and lower— took place in the last century. Among the more important events of later history connected with the county are the battles of Drumclog in the parish of Avondale, 1st June 1679, in which the Covenanters defeated Graham of Claverhouse, and of Bothwell Bridge at Bothwell near Hamilton on the 22d June of the same year, in which the Covenanters were defeated by the duke of Monmouth with great slaughter. The principal buildings of interest besides those noticed in the separate articles on particular towns, are the ruins of Blantyre Priory, the remains of the ancient Douglas Castle, Craignethan Castle (the Tullietudlem of Sir Walter Scott, where Mary Queen of Scots found refuge after her esoape from Lochleven), and Bothwell Castle. See Irving’s History of the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, 3 vols., 1864.
Lanark, a royal and parliamentary burgh, the chief town of the above county, is situated on a slight eminence near the Clyde, 32 miles south-west of Edinburgh, and 25 south-east of Glasgow. It consists principally of one main street, which is spacious and well-paved. The industries are hand-loom weaving and nail making. In the neighbourhood there are extensive oil-works. The county buildings, in the Grecian style, were erected in 1836, and the assembly-rooms, erected in 1827, occupy the site of an old Franciscan monastery. The population of the town in 1871 was 5099, and in 1881 it was 4908.
A parliament was held by Kenneth III. at Lanark in 978, and occasionally it was the residence of the Scottish kings. Its charter is said to have been bestowed by Alexander I. It was more than once the scene of the exploits of William Wallace. New Lanark, a manufacturing village situated on the Clyde about a mile distant, is famous from its connexion with the communistic projects of Robert Owen.
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