SHÍRAZ, a celebrated city in Persia, capital of Fars, from its site and thoroughly Iranian population may be considered the central point, as it were, of Farsi or Parsi (otherwise Persian) nationality. Owing to the pasture land in its vicinity some derive the name from the native word shir, "milk;” others again, asserting the number and physical powers of its inhabitants, accept the same word in its sense of “lion,” or take the whole dissyllable as an obsolete word meaning the “lion’s paunch.” To this effect is cited a local saying to the effect that, “like the lion, it devours all they bring into it.” Shíráz is situated in 29° 36' 30" N. lat. and 52° 32' 9" E. long., in a high plain or valley more than 20 miles long and less than half as broad, and is approached on the south from the sea—a distance of 170 miles —through lofty mountain passes reaching some 7000 feet above the level of the waters of the Persian Gulf. On the north the approach is also through chains of mountains separating the plains of Shíráz from the valley of the Marv Dasht, intersecting which is the Band Amir river, more poetically than accurately described in Lalla Rookh. At Kodiyan, a few miles to the northwest of Shiraz, is the source of another river, which, crossing the high road south of the town under the name of the “Kâra Agatch,” falls into the sea about 70 miles below Bushahr (Bushire), after a tortuous course of 300 miles. The city has a handsome bazaar and some good private residences; but its unattractive streets are narrow, and, though not so crowded with beggars as Ispahan, contain many living objects distressing to the eye. The mosques and minarets, albeit of local repute, look more picturesque to the stranger in the distance than under close inspection. ...One fine view of the town is that on the north, at the pass between the mountains called “Allah Hu Akbar ”— so named, it is conceived, because this would be the traveller’s exclamation of delight when the landscape first opened out upon him. The country in this direction is studded with pleasant gardens. Besides these there are the tombs of the poets Hafiz and Sa'di—both within easy reach of the city. The first—a fine marble monument with a beautifully inscribed ode and other writings upon it—is not a mile from the gate, and is situated in an enclosure bearing the name Háfiziya. The most noted product of Shíráz is its wine, on the merits of which, however, there is much difference of opinion from outside judges. Dr Wills gives an original account of an experiment of his own in making the wine of Shíráz. Its cost in the production was 5 1/2 d. a bottle, and it sold a year after at more than three times that amount. Shíráz is moreover famous for inlaid work (wood and metal) called khátam bandi (from khatam, a seal). The population of the city is estimated under 30,000. The ordinary diseases are intermittent fever, diarrhoea, dysentery, typhoid, guinea worm, cholera, diphtheria, small-pox, and ophthalmia.
Although the praises of Shiráz, its produce, inhabitants, climate, and surroundings of every kind, have been sung by poets for centuries, and are never disputed by Persians who are not Shírazis, yet it is impossible for the sober European traveller to deny that the reality falls far below the picture. We may feel thankful for the wine and the water, the gardens and the monuments, the fruits and the flowers (abundant here as in many other an oasis in the Shah’s dominions); we may sympathize with the national pride in the possession of a Hafiz and a Sa'di; we may believe that the ladies of yore had “eyes brighter than the antelope’s, hair clustering like their own dark grapes, and forms fairer and sweeter than the virgin rose,” and that those of the present day would, if unveiled, strike the spectator with wonder; but one fact remains, —the modern town of Shiráz is not a paradise for those whose personal experience enables them to compare it with the ordinary cities of Europe.
According to Eastern authorities, Shíráz was founded (or refounded, for some accounts ascribe to it a fabulous antiquity) by a brother of the famous Hajjáj about the beginning of the 8th century, or rather by a cousin of Hajjáj called Mohammed b. Kasim b. Abú '0kail. Six hundred years later it was the capital of the Muzaffar dynasty of princes, when it fell to the arms of Timur. But it attained its greatest reputation in the reign of Karim Khan, who embellished the city greatly and made it the special object of his care. On the downfall of this monarch it was sacked and laid waste by the cruel Agha Mohammed.
Shíráz has been often described by native geographers and European writers of travel. Among the latter may be mentioned Pietro della Valle, Herbert, Tavernier, Deslandes, and Chardin, in the 17th century, and in the present century Ouseley, Porter, Morier, Scott-Waring, Forster, Binning, and many quite recent travellers. Neither in his serious history nor lighter sketches does Sir John Malcolm give any detailed account of Shíráz as a city, but his notes on its climate may be cited. On one of the hottest days of Juno 1800 the thermometer registered 94° F. in the house and 100° in a tent. In May 1810 it never rose at noon above 88° nor fell below 74°. In the morning, at eight o’clock, it generally stood about 60°. In autumn the heat continued, but in winter it was seen to fall considerably below the freezing point. As late as March there is often a hoar frost on the ground. April, he adds, is a delightful month, the thermometer at sunrise being generally from 50° to 55°, at two p.m. 80° to 84°, and at nine p.m. about 64°.
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