ULM, an ancient and important commercial town in Wurtemberg, and an imperial fortress of the first class, is situated on the left bank of the Danube, in a fertile plain at the foot of the Swabian Alps, 45 miles to the south-east of Stuttgart and 63 miles to the north-west of Munich. The town, quaintly built with narrow and confined streets, still preserves the dignified and old-fashioned appearance of an ancient imperial town, and contains many mediaeval buildings, both of historic and of artistic interest. Among these, besides numerous handsome private houses, are the town-house, of the 16th century, in the Transition style from late Gothic to Renaissance; the Kornhaus and market-buildings; the Ehingerhaus or Neubronnerhaus, now containing the industrial museum; the “new building,” erected in 1603 on the site of a palace of Charlemagne; and the commandery of the Teutonic order, built in 1712-18 on the site of a habitation of the order dating from the 13th century. By far the most important and conspicuous building in Ulm, however, is the magnificent early Gothic cathedral, next to the cathedral of Cologne the largest church in Germany, and capable of containing 30,000 people. Begun in 1377, and carried on at intervals till the 16th century, the building was long left unfinished; but in 1844 the work of restoration and completion was undertaken, and has steadily progressed ever since. Ulm cathedral has double aisles and a pentagonal apsidal choir, but no transepts. Its length (outside measurement) is 464 feet, its breadth 159 -feet; the nave is 136 feet high and 47j wide; the aisles, which are covered with rich net-vaulting, are 68 feet in height. The massive and richly decorated square tower in the centre of the west façade, for centuries terminated by a temporary ...spire, is now being completed according to the original plans, by the addition of an octagonal story and a tall open spire, which is to be carried up to the height of 534 feet. The towers of the choir have also been rebuilt in the course of the present restoration; they are 282 feet high. The interior, which is unusually well lighted, produces an impression of much dignity from the great height of the nave, the absence of obtrusive decoration, and the massive manner in which the walls and piers are treated. It contains some fine stained glass, the largest organ in Germany (1856), and a number of interesting old paintings and carvings by Syrlin, Engelberger, and other masters of the Swabian school. The cathedral belongs to the Protestant Church. Trinity Church dates from 1617-21; and there are also a Roman Catholic church and a modern synagogue in the town. The Danube, joined by the Iller just above the town and by the Blau just below, becomes navigable at this point, so that Ulm occupies the important commercial position of a terminal river-port. The trade, especially in wood and grain, has an upward tendency; and the Ulm market for leather and cloth is also rising in importance. Ulm is famous for its vegetables (especially asparagus), barley, beer, pipe-bowls, and sweet cakes (Ulmer Zückerbrot). Bleaching, brewing, and brassfounding are carried on, as well as a large miscellany of manufactures, including hats, metal goods, agricultural implements, tobacco and cigars, cement, paper, and chemicals. The population in 1886 was 33,611.
The various routes which converge at Ulm have made it at all times a strategic point of great importance, and it has long been a fortress of the first rank. In 1844-59 the German Confederation carefully fortified it with walls, ramparts, and ditches, and in 1876 the new German empire added a very comprehensive outer girdle of detached forts, culminating in the powerful citadel of Wilhelmsburg. The defensive works embrace also the Bavarian town of Neu-Ulm (7823 inhabitants), on the opposite bank of the Danube, united with the older city by two stone bridges. Ulm is thus the basis of operations for the German army behind the Black Forest, and can easily shelter a force of 100,000 men; its peace garrison is 5600.
Ulm is mentioned as early as the year 854. It subsequently became a free imperial city, and the leading town in Swabia. In the 15th century it attained the summit of its prosperity, and ruled over a district of many square miles, with a population, rural and urban, of about 60,000. Towards the end of the Middle Ages it frequently appears at the head of various Swabian leagues. In 1530 it adopted the Augsburg Confession. In 1803 it passed to Bavaria, and in 1810 to Wurtemberg. In 1805 General Mack, with 33,000 Austrians, capitulated to Napoleon at Ulm. Ulm is remarkable in the history of German literature as the spot where the “meistersänger” lingered longest, preserving, without text and without notes, the traditional lore of their craft. In 1830 there were twelve “meistersänger'* alive at Ulm; but in 1839 the four survivors formally made over their insignia and guild property to a modern singing society, and closed the record of “Meistergesang” in Germany. The last formal meeting of the Nuremberg “meister” took place in 1770.
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