WALTHAM ABBEY, or Waltham Holy Cross, a market-town of Essex, England, on the borders of Hertfordshire and Middlesex, is situated on the Lea, near the great northern road, and on the Cambridge branch of the Great Eastern Railway, 13 miles north of Liverpool Street station, London. The town lies in a hollow, with streets for the most part crooked and narrow, and although many additions have lately been made it still retains much of the characteristic appearance of an old country town. Of the former magnificent abbey church the only portion of importance now remaining is the nave, forming the present parish church, the two easternmost bays of the nave being converted into the chancel. It is a very fine specimen of Norman, and in the opinion of Mr Freeman forms part of the original building of Harold, although others assign its date to the time of Henry I. Only the western supports of the ancient tower now remain. A tower corresponding with the present size of the church was erected in 1556 and restored in 1798. On the south side of the church is a lady chapel of about the end of the reign of Edward II. or beginning of that of Edward III., containing some good decorated work. Bishop Hall became curate of Waltham in 1612, and Thomas Fuller was curate from 1648 to 1658. At Waltham Cross on the great northern road, about a mile west of Waltham, is the beautiful cross erected (1291-94) by Edward I. at one of the resting-places of the corpse of Queen Eleanor on its way to burial in Westminster Abbey. It is of Caen stone and is supposed to have been designed by Pietro Cavalini, a Roman sculptor. It is hexagonal in plan, and consists of three stages, decreasing towards the top, which is finished by a crocheted spirelet aud cross. The lower stage is divided into compartments ...enclosing the arms of England, Castile and Leon, and Ponthieu. It underwent restoration in 1833, and a scheme for the same object was started in 1885. The old Elizabeth market-house that formerly stood in the market-square of Waltham was taken down in 1852. The town is the seat of a county court for Epping division of Essex, and possesses a court house erected in 1849. The royal gunpowder factory is in the immediate vicinity; and the town possesses gun-cotton and percussion-cap factories, flour-mills, malt kilns, and breweries. Watercresses are largely grown in the neighbourhood, and there are extensive market-gardens and nurseries, including Paul’s famous rose nursery. The area of the urban sanitary district of Waltham Holy Cross, which is identical with the parish of Waltham Abbey and is in the civil county of Essex and registration county of Middlesex, is 11,017 acres. the population being 5197 in 1871 and 5368 in 1881.
Waltham appears first in history as the hunting seat of the Danish thane Tovi or Tofi, the royal standard-bearer at whose wedding feast Hardicanute died. The great forest on the edge of which it was built was long known as the forest of Waltham, but the only portion of it now remaining is called Epping forest. A wonderful cross which had been found in Tovi’s land at Montacute, Somerset, was brought to Waltham, and Tovi built a church for its reception, which was named the Church of the Holy Cross. When the estate after being confiscated to the crown came into the possession of Harold, he pulled down Tovi’s church and built a new one of great magnificence, which was consecrated in 1060. He also founded a great secular college, which, though usually referred to as an abbey, did not, as is pointed out by Mr Freeman, become a religious house till the reign of Henry II. Shortly before the fatal battle of Hastings, Harold made a pilgrimage to Waltham, bringing with him many gifts. His body, which was first buried under a cairn at Hastings, was subsequently brought to Waltham and buried in the place of honour by the high altar. The tomb was destroyed about 1540. The site and property of the abbey were given by Henry VIII. to Sir Anthony Denny, whose grandson, Sir Edward Denny, was created by James I. baron of Waltham, and by Charles I. earl of Norwich. The town obtained a grant of a market from Henry III.
See “Architecture und Early History of Waltham Abbey Church,” by E. A. Freeman, and other papers in vol. ii. of Transactions of the Essex Archaeological Society; Thomas Fuller's History of Waltham Abbey; Stubbs’s Foundation of Waltham Abbey, and Freeman’s Norman Conquest.
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