The Lower Silurian and Cambrian beds may be termed the basis of the geological features of this county; but they are so completely penetrated in every direction by intrusive igneous rocks that there is hardly a square mile of surface in the whole county free from their presence. These consist chiefly of compact felspar, felspathic traps, greenstone, quartz porphyries, and syenite. On the west, along the shore of the Menai Strait, there is a narrow belt of carboniferous limestone; of this the Great Orme’s Head is also composed; and on the western side of the peninsular part of the county is a broad band of chlorite and mica schist with serpentine interspersed. Carnarvon is rich in mineral treasures; for, besides lead and copper lodes and an appreciable amount of gold, its numerous slate quarries are amongst the most valuable mineral properties in the United Kingdom, and yield princely incomes to the fortunate possessors, besides furnishing employment to many thousands of workmen,

Carnarvon is the most mountainous of all the Welsh counties, and its mountains are the grandest of any in the British islands south of the Forth. The Snowdon range fills up the whole of the centre of the county; and, with its lofty summits rising to the height of between 3000 and 4000 feet, throws an air of grandeur and sublimity over scenery which is of the most romantic and beautiful description. The summit of Snowdon itself is 3570 feet above the level of the sea, and it is surrounded by a phalanx of giants, many of them but little lower that itself. Among the more important of these, within the county, are the Carnedd Llewelyn, 3482 feet; the Carnedd Dafydd, 3430 feet; the Glyder Fawr, 3275 feet; the Elidyr-fawr, 3033 feet; the Moel Siabod. 2863 feet; Moel Hebog, 2578 feet; and Drum, 2527 feet in height. The rocks of which the Snowdonian range is composed are for the most part of a very bold and rugged description, which adds to the impressiveness of their immense masses.

Some of the valleys are characterized by the extreme of wild and rugged grandeur, being walled in by the naked rocks, and traversed by foaming torrents; while others are marked by soft and smiling beauty. Among the former may be mentioned the gorge at Pont Aberglaslyn, while Nant Gwynant, with its placid lake and verdant meadows, will serve as an illustration of the latter. The vales of Beddgelert and Llanberis, the former at the southern, and the latter at the northern base of Snowdon, have a world-wide reputation for beauty; and the vale of the Conway, from Llanrwst to Conway, is a noble piece of scenery, backed as it is on its southern border by the Snowdon range.

The only river of importance is the Conway, which rises in Llyn Conway, in the S.E. corner of the county, and after separating Carnarvon from Denbigh in a nearly due north course of about 30 miles, falls into the sea at Conway. It is a tidal river, and is navigable for about 10 miles from Conway. The Seoint, a small stream, rises in Snowdon, and falls into the sea at Carnarvon.

The lakes are very numerous, and some of them of considerable size. The more important are the lakes of Llanberis (Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn), to the north of Snowdon; Llyn Ogwen, to the north of the Glyder Fawr; Llyn Cwlyd and Llyn Eigiau, both to the north of Capel Curcg; Llyn Llydau on Snowdon; Llyn Cwellyn to the west, and Llyn Gwynant to the east of that mountain; Llyniau Nant-y-Llef or Nautile Pools, near Llanllyfni; and Llyn Conway, already referred to.

The climate is cold and severe during the winter, except in the peninsular part of the county and on the sea-coast, where it is very mild. The arable land occupies not more than a third part of the whole surface; and this is mostly in the vale of Conway, or in the neighbourhood of the sea. A small quantity of wheat is raised; but the principal cultivated crops are oats, barley, and potatoes. The alluvial deposit in some of the valleys forms a rich and fertile soil, which is chiefly employed as meadow land. Dairy and sheep-farming form the chief employment of the agricultural population; and on the hills numbers of diminutive ponies are reared, which at two years old find a steady sale in the English market. Agriculture is not in a forward state, and has not been advanced by the success attending the mining industries of the county. In 1873 Carnarvon was divided among 6240 separate proprietors, 4610 of these owning holdings of less than an acre; eleven holdings consisted of more than 5000 acres, and none exceeded 42,000 acres. On an average each holding contained 48 acres, the average of all Wales being 74½; and the average rental of properties amounting to an acre and upwards was as high as 19s. 9d. per acre, owing to the presence of so many valuable mines.

The following tables will show the state of agriculture in the county in the years 1872 and 1875, and from these it will be observed that there is a general diminution of the acreage of crops but an increase in the numbers of live stock :— [table]

The county is as well served with railways as the mountainous character of the district will allow. The Chester and Holyhead line runs along the northern coast, and crosses to Anglesey by means of the Britannia Bridge over the Menai Strait. From this line branches diverge up the valley of the Conway, and across the peninsula by Carnarvon to Pwllheli, &c. The Cumbrian line enters from the south at Portmadoc.

These means of communication and the numerous ports on its coasts, afford very great facilities for the transport of the important mineral products of the county.

Copper, lead, and slate are worked very largely, particularly the last, which is of the most valuable quality. For roofing, paving, and ornamental purposes it is exported in large quantities. In 1871, 4370 men were employed in the slate quarries. The chief owners are Lord Penrhyn, Mr Duff Smith, and the Welsh Slate Company.

The inhabitants, who all speak Welsh more or less, numbered in 1851 87,870; in 1871 they had increased 20½ per cent., amounting to 106,121, of whom 51,874 were males and 54,247 females. Nearly the whole of Carnarvonshire is in the diocese of Bangor. It has a court of quarter sessions. It is represented in Parliament by one member for the county and one for the Bangor group of boroughs.

The principal towns are Bangor, population (1871) 9859; Carnarvon, 9449; Pwllheli, 3009; and Llandudno, 2762.

Carnarvonshire was occupied by the important tribe of the Segontiaci, who were with difficulty subdued by Ostorius Scapula and Suetonius Paulinus. During the Roman period it formed part of Britannia Secunda, and Conovium and Segontium have been identified as Caer Rhyn and Carnarvon (Caer Seoint). Later it was part of the kingdom of Gwynnedd until Edward I. in 1277 restricted that division to the land of Snowdon proper. The early fortresses at Diganwy, Dinorwig, <fcc., as well as the later castles at Conway, Carnarvon, and other places, attest the warlike character of its inhabitants.

Carnarvon, the capital of the above county, a parliamentary and municipal borough, occupies an area of 1897 acres, and is pleasantly situated on the eastern shore of Carnarvon Bay, in the Irish Sea, at the mouth of the Seoint, 210 miles north-west of London. It stands very nearly upon the site of Caer Seoint, the ancient capital of the Segontiaci, and owes its origin to Hugh Lupus, earl of Chester, who in 1098 fortified the place. The noble castle was commenced in 1284, and the common tradition that Edward II. was born in that year within its walls is now known to be unfounded, as they were at the date of his birth scarcely in existence. It occupies a large area on the west side of the town and is in the form of an irregular oblong, surrounded by walls and defended by thirteen polygonal towers. The Eagle Tower (Edward’s reputed birthplace) is at the extreme west, and is of conspicuous beauty and dominant height. A considerable portion of the town-wall near the castle is still entire. The parish church is nearly half a mile from the town. In the town itself there is a chapel of ease, and several large and commodious dissenting chapels. There are also a town and county hall, a training college for teachers, and handsome schools. The town also possesses assembly rooms and a theatre, and is resorted to as a sea-bathing place in summer. The port is used for the export of slates and copper ore from the quarries of Llanberis and Llanllyfni, but there is little manufacturing in the town itself. The borough has formed part of a district which has returned a member to Parliament since 1536. The Reform Bill added Bangor to the district, which now includes Carnarvon, Conway, Criccieth, Pwllheli, Bangor, and Nevin. The population of Carnarvon in 1851 was 8674, and in 1871, 9449 (males 4357, females 5092); the inhabited houses numbered 1975. There is a weekly market on Saturdays, and four fairs are held in the course of the year. The quarter sessions and assizes are held in the town.