GHILAN, or Gilan, a province of Persia, lying along the S.W. shore of the Caspian, separated from the Russian district of Talish by the Λstara, and bounded W. by Azerbijan, S. by Irak Adjemi, and S.E. by Mazanderan. It is about 150 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 15 to 50 miles; and its area is estimated at from 4500 to 5000 square miles. The greater portion of the province is a lowland region shut in by the mountains of the Elburz range; and though the Kyzyl Usen, which has its sources in the mountains of Kurdistan, is the only river of any size, the country is abundantly watered, and vast stretches of swamp are found in various directions. This is mainly due to the character of the climate, which is distinguished by a very heavy precipitation both in winter and summer. Vegetation is almost tropically luxuriant, and the forests are as dense as an Indian jungle. Oaks, maples, ash trees, planeras, lime trees, and parrottias, are among the prevailing types. The chestnut-leaved oak attains colossal proportions, and a height at times of 130 or 140 feet; and the box tree comes to rare perfection, and forms an important source of wealth. Vines and pomegranates, walnuts, plums, pears, and apples grow wild; and oranges, lemons, peaches, and other fruits are easily cultivated, though sometimes a severe winter proves fatal to the trees. The olive succeeds well in the valley of the Sefudrood, but the oil is extracted in a very primitive manner. Rice is largely cultivated, and forms the principal food of the inhabitants, except in the west, where its place is partially taken by wheat, a cereal indeed to which the Ghilanese farmer is more and more directing his attention. Cotton and sugar are both grown in small quantities, and the character of the climate gives reason ...to hope that tea plantations may be rendered profitable in some districts. Hitherto the most successful occupation has been silk-growing; but frequent failures in the crop have disheartened, if they have not ruined, many of the silk-masters. The quantity produced in 1866 was valued at £743,300, while the average between 1870 and 1875 was only about £270,000. In quality the silk does not rank very high, the greater portion being the produce of Japanese seed. Animal life is nearly as well represented in Ghilan as vegetable life. Tigers, wild boars, deer, and a considerable variety of snakes are found in the jungles; pheasants are a common form of game; aquatic bi rds of various kinds—pelicans, storks, heron, gulls, ducks, &c., swarm along the coast; and the fisheries in the Caspian are highly productive. The ordinary cattle, a small humped species like that of India, form an article of export; sheep and goats are not so plentiful, but they furnish very fine wool; and the horses are a hardy race, greatly prized in other parts of Persia, and especially in the capital. Wild horses are to be met with in the forests. Trade and commerce are in a very undeveloped state,—and no wonder when, with one trifling exception, there is no carriageable road in the province, and merchandise has to be transported on the backs of horses, mules, or camels. A striking instance of the primitive state of matters is furnished by Mr Mounsey, who tells how the machinery ordered by the Shah from Europe for his new mint was allowed to go to ruin in the sand at Enzelli, because it was found impossible to provide for its conveyance. The port of Enzelli, though it boasts of a lighthouse and three small forts, is little more than a natural harbour, and in rough weather it is not accessible to the mail steamers, which in the ordinary course call once a week.
The administration of the province is nearly as primitive as its system of roads, and consists of nothing but machinery for the collection of the taxes, which yield about £63,000 to the royal revenue. The capital is Resht, and the administrative districts are Resht, Lahijan, Fomen, Gesku, Talishan, Sheft, Rustemabad, Rudbar, Menjech, Lengerood, Siah Kuh, and Dilman. Every able-bodied man is enrolled in a sort of frontier guard in the district of Talishan, but no regular police is maintained throughout the province. The population is of very various composition; but the main stock, including the Tats and the Gileki, is of Iranian origin. The Gilek is strongly built, but lank, and his complexion is a sort of olive or copper colour; the Tat, on the other hand, has a tendency to corpulence, and his complexion is swarthy. According to different estimates, the inhabitants of the province number 150,000, 200,000, or 275,000; but it is more than usually difficult to ascertain the truth of the case, as they are for the most part scattered through the country in small hamlets. Ghilan is part of the ancient district of Hyrcania. The name is usually explained as equivalent to Mud-land; but Spiegel objects to this derivation, and says the true form of the word is Gelan, which has received no interpretation. There is nothing very distinctive about the history of the province; but its position, its climate, and its soil should secure it a flourishing future were its political condition improved.
See Melgunoff, The Southern Shore of the Caspian (in Russian); Mounsey, Journey through the Caucasus, &c., 1872; Tietze, Zeitschrift der Ges. fur Erdkunde, Vienna, 1875; and Consular Reports.
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