KAMCHATKA, or Kamtchatka, a peninsular portion of eastern Siberia, Russia, stretching south between the Sea of Okhotsk on the west and Behring’s Sea on the east, and finding its physical continuation first in the Kurile Islands (of which Shunshu is only 7 miles distant from the terminal Cape Lopatka) and then in the larger islands of the empire of Japan. The area is estimated at 237,266 square miles. The range of mountains which forms the backbone of the peninsula opens up towards the middle into two distinct branches, and gives the whole the general outline of an oval leaf. The western branch is the higher of the two. Southwards from 57° N. lat. there are no fewer than twelve active and twenty-six extinct craters,—all, however, except five on the eastern side of the peninsula. The active volcanoes are as follows :—Klyutchevskaya Sopka (15,040 feet in height), Shevelyutch (9898 feet), Bolshaya {i,e., the Great) Tolbatcha (7800 feet), Kizimen, Uzon, Kishpinitch, the Great and the Little Semetchik, Zhupanova Sopka (8496 feet), Avatchinskaya (8360 feet), Asatcha, and Tchaokhtch. The eruptions of Klyutchevskaya are not unworthy of being compared with those of Mount Etna; the most notable chronicled by European observers are those of 1727-1731 (lasting four years), 1737, and 1854. More than twenty hot springs are known. The basis rocks are granite and porphyry, with metamorphic schists, basalts, trachytes, and other volcanic rocks. The sedimentary rocks are mainly of Tertiary and more particularly Eocene origin; those of the Quaternary period have a limited area. Native copper, magnetic iron, lignite, amber, mica, and sulphur are the chief minerals. Of the rivers the largest bears the same name as the peninsula; rising in the highest part of the central range, it ...flows north for about 310 miles, and falls into the Behring Sea. The valley of the Kamchatka forms the most fertile and most populous portion of the peninsula. For the meteorology of this portion of Asia the materials are of the scantiest; Dr Wild even {Het. Repertorium, suppl. vol., St Petersb., 1881) is obliged to have recourse to observations as far back as 1844. In January the mean temperature appears to be 19 , 4° Fahr, at the southern point of the peninsula, 17∙6° at Petropavlovsk, and - 5 ’ 8° at the northern extremity. The western coast is very considerably colder in winter than the east, but the snowfall is much heavier in the east than in the west. Towards the south especially snow often lies so thick that the natives cannot keep reindeer. During summer the weather is very uncertain, with frequent rains and fogs; but in the centre of the peninsula especially there is a large amount of warmth. Vegetation, especially on soils of volcanic origin, is remarkably luxuriant; the grass grows nearly 5 feet high, and may be cut three times. In the woods berries, mushrooms, and the Martagon lily abound, the bulbs of the last also furnishing food to the natives. Beyond the forests appear Rhododendron Kamtschaticum, Salix arctica, and other plants of an alpine type. The Kamchatkan nettle—with richly variegated foliage—is a familiar object in English greenhouses. Besides the Kamchadales proper there are Koryak and Lamut tribes within the limits of the peninsula. By themselves the Kamchadales are called Itelm,—the name by which they are usually known being a corruption of Konchal, their Koryak appellation. There are not in all more than 2000 Kamchadales, and the process of Russification is going on rapidly. They are a strong hardy people, inured to the severities of the climate, capable of any amount of toil in the way of walking. To their women they are affectionate, and even submissive. In winter they live in pits covered in with earth and turf, the interior being reached by means of a ladder. In the summer they occupy slight wooden sheds {bologanf) raised on high props or stilts. The skill they display in the training of their sledge-dogs is not surpassed by any other people who practice the same art. With their sledges (narts)—which measure from 5 to 10 feet in length—they travel 4 to 8 miles an hour. The Kamchadale language cannot be assigned to any known group; its vocabulary is extremely poor. The purity of the tongue is best preserved by the people of the Penzhinsk district On the west coast; many of the inhabitants of the Kamchatka valley speak a broken Russian. Mr Kennan compares the sound of the language to that of water running out of a narrow-mouthed jug. The total population of the peninsula were 7331 in 1853, and 5846 in 1870.
The Russians made their first settlements in Kamchatka in the end of the 17th century; in 1696 Vladimir Atlasoff from Ana-duirsk founded Nizhne-Kamchatsk, and in 1704 Kobeleff founded Bolsheryetsk. About twelve years later the Russians came for the first time by sea from Okhotsk. In 1720 a survey of thepeninsula was undertaken; in 1725-30 it was visited by Behring’s expedition; and from 1733-45 it was the scene of the labours of the Krasheninnikoff and Steller expedition. Disturbance among the natives in 1731 led to the building of a fort at Tigilsk. The seat of the government is at Petropavlovsk. In 1855 the country was incorporated with the Maritime Province.
See Krasheninnikoff, Opisαηie Kamehatkι, 1786, of which an English translation appeared at Gloucester, 1764, and a German translation at Leipsic, 1774; Lesseps, Reise durch Kamtschatka, Berlin, 1791; Erman, Reise, vol. iii.; Langsdorff, Bemerk, auf einer Reise um die Welt, 1812; Tronson, Voyage to Japan, &c., London, 1859; Petermann’s Mittheihcngcn, 1860; Revue d' Anthropologie, 1872; Kennan, Tent Life in Siberia, New York, 1870; and the same author’s paper in Journ. of Amer. Geogr. Soc., 1876.
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