The coast-line is extremely irregular and extends to over 100 miles, the principal inlets being Newport Bay; Fishguard Bay, 3 miles in breadth, with an average depth of from 30 to 70 feet, and possessing a good anchorage-ground of mud and sand; St Bride’s Bay, 8 miles long by 8 broad; and Milford Haven, a splendid landlocked natural harbour, having a length of about 20 miles, and including numerous small bays and creeks. A considerable number of islands adjoin the coast, the largest being Ramsey, which (excepting some small rocks) includes the most westerly land in Wales; Skomer and Stockham, between St Bride’s Bay and Milford Haven; and Caldy, south of Tenby. The southern coast, consisting of bare, broken, and beetling limestone cliffs, in many cases 200 feet in height, is exposed to the full force of the Atlantic, which in several places has hollowed out long funnel-shaped cavities into which the sea has entrance, the most remarkable being Bosheston Mere, near St Gowan’s Head. Owing to the ocean storms the county is almost bare of trees, and the bareness is not relieved or atoned for by mountains, although in many parts of the coast the scenery is wildly picturesque. For the most part the surface is gently undulating, the small rounded hills rising in height towards the north, until they merge in the Preseley range, which runs from east to west and divides the county into two parts, the highest summits being Cwm-Cerwyn, 1754 feet, in the centre of the chain, the lesser eminences of Moel Trigarn and Carn-meyn in the east, and Bwlch-gwnt and Foel Eryr in the west. The principal rivers are the Teifi, which forms for a short distance the north-eastern boundary of the county with Cardiganshire; the Cleddy or Cleddou, of which there are two branches, an eastern and a western, both flowing south and mingling their waters in Milford Haven; the Nevern, which flows north into Newport Bay; and the Gwaen, which flows through a narrow and beautifully-wooded glen to Fishguard Bay.

Geology and Minerals.— Three-fourths of the county, including the northern portion stretching westwards to the western Cleddou river, and, with certain exceptions, to the Channel, is formed of Llandeilo flags. The Carboniferous strata from the South-Wales coal-field extend across the centre of the county from east to west, their area narrowing towards the west. The Pembrokeshire coal-field differs entirely from the South-Wales coal-field both in the lie of the strata and in the character of its beds, due to the occurrence of volcanic action. It is separated also from the main field by an interpolation of Old Red Sandstone. North, east, and north-west it is bounded by beds of mountain limestone and millstone grit, and on the south by Cambrian beds and by the ocean, below which the Coal-measures extend. The strata are composed of Coal-measures, Carboniferous Limestone, and Old Red Sandstone, and are frequently extremely contorted. Igneous stratified rocks also occur in the Preseley range, and in the neighbourhood of St David’s Head. The coal is anthracite, and when put on the fire in a wet state emits a blue flame without smoke. About 80,000 tons are now dug annually, the coal being used for furnaces and for smelting and brewing purposes. There is a lead mine at Llanfyrnach, from which a considerable yield of silver is obtained, the annual value of the ore raised being about £15,000. In caves explored near Tenby and on Caldy Island there have been found remains of various species of extinct mammals.

Climate, Soil, and Agriculture.— Although Pembrokeshire is exposed to frequent violent gales from the southwest, the climate in the south is very mild and warm; and flowers, fruits, and vegetables are earlier than in most other districts of the United Kingdom. Towards the north, especially on the higher ground, it is much colder, and damp fogs and rain are frequent. The most common soil is a dark-grey loam, which is much improved by admixture with lime and sand. The sandstone and limestone formation in the south produces an excellent quick soil, admirably adapted for horticulture, which is generally pursued in this district. In the more northerly and higher regions more attention is given to cattle-rearing and dairy-farming than to the raising of crops or sheep-farming. The farmhouses and buildings, which formerly were rude and primitive in construction, with low mud-walls, are now generally built of stone on improved methods. The cottages of the peasants are, however, still for the most part uncomfortable huts built of a clay and straw compound called “clom.” Great improvements have late!y taken place in farming, owing in great part to the enlightened encouragement of the landlords.

From 5935 in 1875 the number of holdings had increased to 5999 in 1880 (the latest return). Nearly four-fifths, 4222, were not above 50 acres eaeh in extent, 837 were between 50 and 100 acres, 853 between 100 and 300, and only 87 above 300 acres. In 1883 there were 305,644 acres, or about 77 per cent, of the total area, under tillage, com crops occupying 55,011 acres, green crops 13,266, rotation grasses 28,409, peπnanent pasture 206,052, and fallow 2906. The principal cereals are barley occupying 24,799 acres and oats (of which the black species occupy a large area) 25,494 acres, wheat occupying only 4604 acres. Potatoes were grown on 3042 acres, turnips and swedes on 8038, and mangolds on 1322. Horses in 1883 numbered 14,383 (of which 8665 were used solely for purposes of agriculture), cattle 83,436 (of which 31,779 were cows and heifers in milk or in calf), sheep 91,901, and pigs 27,623. The principal breed of cattle are the native Castlemartins, black in colour, and well suited to the climate and the system of farming, as they both fatten readily and yield large supplies of milk. Herefords and Alderneys have lately been introduced on many farms, but the old breed is still the favourite.

According to the latest return the land was divided among 3121 owners, possessing 356,699 acres, at an annual valuation of £389,701, or about £1 Is. lOd. per acre. The estimated amount of common or waste land was 11,260 acres. Of the owners, 1492, or about 44 per cent., possessed less than one acre each. The following owned over 5000 acres each, viz., C. E. G. Phillips, 18,729 acres; earl of Cawdor, 17,736; Sir Owen Scourfield, Bart., 11,243; Lord Kensington, 6537; bishop of St David’s, 5651; George Harries, 5173; and Μ. A. Sawin, 5168.

Manufactures.— Flannels are woven in various towns, and are the principal textile manufacture of the county; there are also rope and sail works, and hat-making is practised. Many of the inhabitants are engaged in coal-mining and in fishing. At Pater there is a very extensive dockyard, and shipbuilding is carried on at several other ports. Since the opening up of railway communication the shipping trade, and the mining and other industries, have made extensive progress, but the railway connexion is still somewhat imperfect.

Administration and Population.— The county includes seven hundreds; the municipal boroughs of Haverfordwest (6398), Pembroke (14,156), and Tenby (4750), and part (2058) of the municipal borough of Cardigan, the remainder of which is in Cardiganshire. In addition to Haverfordwest, Pembroke, and Tenby, there are four other market towns,—Fishguard (2009), Milford (3812), Narberth (2334), and Newport (1504). The county is divided into three poor-law unions—Haverfordwest, Pembroke, and Narberth. It is included in the south-western circuit. It has one court of quarter-sessions, and is divided into seven petty and special sessional divisions. One member is returned to parliament for the county, one for the Haverfordwest district of boroughs, consisting of Fishguard, Haverfordwest, and Narberth, and one for the Pembroke district of boroughs, consisting of Milford, Pembroke, Tenby, and Wiston. Pembrokeshire contains 153 civil parishes, with part of one other. It constitutes the archdeaconry of St David’s in the diocese of the same name, and forms part of the province of Canterbury. From 56,280 in 1801 the population had increased in 1821 to 74,009, in 1851 to 94,140, but in 1871 it had diminished to 91,998, and in 1881 to 91,824, of whom 43,449 were males and 48,375 females. The number of inhabited houses in 1881 was 19,462, the average number of persons to an acre 0'23, and of acres to a person 4 ’ 26.

History, <f,∙c.—Although the limestone caves of Pembrokeshire abound with relics of the Pleistocene fauna, no traces have as yet been discovered of Palaeolithic man. Neolithic remains are plentiful. In caves, cliff-castles, bogs, kitchen-middens, &c., implements of the polished stone age are frequently found, but, strange to say, the long barrows typical of this period are wanting; dolmens or cromlechs, however, are very common: the ordnance map gives eighteen, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. LΓecn-y-Drybedd near Nevern, Pentre Evan near Newport, another one in the same town, Longhouse near Mathry, Tre Llys on Pencair, are magnificent specimens of Megalithic work. Stone circles, cairns, monoliths, and earthworks abound in the county; what proportion of these are attributable to the dolichocephalic non-Aryan Silures who used stone implements it is impossible to say.

The Goidel or Gaelic branch of the Celtic family has the credit of having introduced bronze and round tumuli with cremated bodies; of these latter there are a great number in Pembrokeshire, and considerable quantities of bronze implements have been discovered. A mixture of Silures and Goidels seem to have held the country until they were conquered by the Romans about the year 70 a.d. Roman remains are but scantily represented in Pembrokeshire. Via Julia terminated at St David’s, but no traces of the peculiar Roman roadmaking exist. Fenton, the county historian, fancied he discovered the station Ad Vigesimum of the spurious Itinerary of Antonine at Ambleston, and there can be no doubt that a large Roman building of some sort did exist at that place. The late Professor Rolleston and Mr E. Laws discovered Samian ware in the cave of Longbury near Tenby, and Roman coins, ranging from Vespasian, 78 A.D., to Constantine II., 340 A.D., have been found very plentifully in the county.

When the Saxons pressed the Cymric tribe of Brythonic Celts in Cumbria, the latter appear to have migrated into Wales, and to have conquered the inhabitants; the Pembrokeshire Goidels seem to have held out for some time. During this troubled period there was a great incursion of missionaries, both Goidel and Cymric; to these we owe the nomenclature of many villages. To this period must be attributed the sepulchral inscriptions in that strange character which has been called Ogam. Of these so many are to be found in Pembrokeshire that it has been considered probable they were invented in the district. They are usually in base Latin; good specimens are to be seen on Caldy Island, St Dogmel’s, Cwmgloyπe near Nevern, and Treffgarne near Haverfordwest. Most of the crosses must be attributed to this period, though probably the inscribed ones at Carew and Nevern are of later date.

After Wales had been completely conquered by the Cymry, Rhodri Mawr divided it among his sons, and Pembrokeshire fell to Cadell in 877. From that period until its complete incorporation with England it suffered terribly from the family feuds of the Welsh princes. The Scandinavians also proved a fearful scourge. Their first incursion, according to the Brut-y-Tywysogion, took place in 795. The creeks of Pembrokeshire were peculiarly adapted to the wants of the vikings, and they seem to have formed a strong colony in the county, of which such names as Asgard, Fishguard, Grafsholm, Freystrop, Goodwich, Milford Haven (Midfjord Havn), Haverfordwest (Havards Fjord), &c., are an abiding evidence.

During the reign of William Rufus, Arnulph de Montgomery, son of Roger de Belesme, invaded the southern portion of the county with the king’s sanction; he gained a district and built Pembroke Castle; Manorbier was most likely erected at the same time. In 1107 a colony of Flemings was sent into Pembrokeshire by the king (Henry I. ); they settled at Haverford and Tenby. A second party of Flemings and other adventurers was despatched to Pembroke by Henry II.; these were mercenaries who had served in the civil war between Stephen and Maud. In April 1170 a party of Pembrokeshire men invaded and overran the eastern shores of Ireland.

In 1405 Owen Glendower harried the country; he occupied Tenby with 10,000 Welshmen, and was joined by a French force of 12,000 men who had landed in Milford Haven. In 1456 Henry VIL was born in Pembroke Castle, the residence of his uncle Jasper Tudor, earl of Pembroke. After a long exile he landed at Brunt near Dale with French troops; here he was joined by Sir Rhys ap Thomas at the head of a large number of Welshmen, with whom he marched to Bosworth field. When the church property was disposed of under Henry VIII., Lamphey Court, once a bishop’s seat, fell to the Devereux family, and it was the residence of the three Devereux carls of Essex. These noblemen were extremely popular, and it was most likely in ct>nsequence of the political views held by Robert the third earl that when the civil war broke out Pembrokeshire was found to be “the most seditious county in all Wales, or rather of England, for the inhabitants were like English corporations, unlike loyal Welshmen” (Mercurius Aulicus, 29th week, 20th July 1644). Pembroke and Tenby held out until 1648, when the Presbyterians rebelled against the Independents; then under Mayor and Colonel Poyer the royal standard was hoisted on Pembroke keep. Cromwell himself besieged Pembroke, which yielded to him on 17th July 1648.

Besides the ruins of the fine castle of Pembroke, many others are to be found in the county,—Manorbier, Carew, Lamphey, Narberth, Llawhaddon, Haverford, Roch, Newport; but Newport has been turned into a modern dwelling-house. Most of these are Edwardian erections on Norman work, some of them having Tudor additions.

The most important ecclesiastical building is the cathedral of St David’s. Some sort of church existed on the site from the 6th century, but the earliest work now remaining is that of Bishop Peter de Leia (1180). This was seriously injured by the fall of the tower in 1220; the damage had scarcely been repaired when the church was wrecked by an earthquake in 1248. In 1328 Henry Gower succeeded to the bishopric, the most munificent benefactor the church of St David’s ever saw; he transformed the cathedral, introducing the Decorated style throughout the edifice. After the Reformation the building was permitted to fall gradually into decay, until it had become little better than a ruin. But in 1863 the edifice, more especially the tower, was thoroughly restored under the late Sir Gilbert Scott.

PEMBROKE, a municipal and parliamentary borough of South Wales, is picturesquely situated on an elevated ridge at the head of Pennar Mouth Creek, on the south side of Milford Haven, 30 miles south-west of Carmarthen. The ruins of the ancient castle, originally founded by Arnulph de Montgomery in 1094, occupy the summit of the ridge. The castle was one of the strongest of the ancient fortresses of Wales. Beneath it is an enormous natural cavern, called “The Wogan,” 70 feet long and 50 feet wide. At the beginning of the Civil War the castle was held for the Parliament, but, the commandants having gone over to the Royal cause, it was taken by Cromwell after six weeks’ siege. Near the castle are the ruins of Monkton Priory church, in the Norman style, containing a long vaulted nave in good preservation.' The church of St Mary, in the Early Pointed style, possesses a massive steeple. At Pater, 2 miles west of Pembroke, is Pembroke dock, an important Government dockyard, surrounded with very strong fortifications. The dock is 70 acres in extent, and the yard affords employment to about 24,000 artisans. There are also artillery and infantry barracks. Pembroke possesses a town-hall, assembly rooms, a mechanics’ institute, an infirmary, and several charities. The town was incorporated by Strongbow, earl of Pembroke, in the reign of Stephen, but the earliest charter preserved is one granted by John, which was confirmed by successive sovereigns. The population of the municipal borough (area, 5626 acres), which includes the two wards of Pater and Pembroke, in 1871 was 13,704, and in 1881 it was 14,156. The population of the parliamentary borough (area, 6298 acres) in the latter year was 16,339.