The principal river is the Towy, with its tributaries the Gwili and Cothi, which drains the central basin of the county, and enters the sea in Carmarthen Bay immediately to the east of the river Taf. The latter stream, with its numerous affluents, drains the western portion of the county; while in the north, the Teifi separates Cardigan from Carmarthenshire. The Llwchwr, springing from the Black Mountains, separates in its lower course Glamorgan from this county.

The climate is mild, except in the very elevated parts of the county; but the annual fall of rain is very great, amounting at Carmarthen in 1875 to nc less than 60 - 87 inches. Agriculture is generally not in a very forward condition; but progress is being made in efficient drainage under the provisions of the Drainage Acts, and better modes of agricultural practice are coming into use. The soil varies very much; but in the southern parts of the county, and in the larger valleys, it is exceedingly fertile.

In the south-east there are extensive and valuable coal and iron mines. There are also some important lead mines, and limestone is abundant in the south.

Railways intersect the county; the through line from Bristol to Milford Haven, traversing the southern district, affords expeditious communication with London on the east and Ireland on the west.

The principal industry is that of agriculture, more particularly that of stock-raising. In 1873 the number of holdings in the county of less than one acre in extent amounted to 5168, and of an acre and upwards to 2898. There were only 11 above 5000 acres, and none exceeded 35,000. The average size of each holding at that date was 63∣ acres, that of all Wales amounting to 74½. The average rental of those containing one acre and upwards amounted to 14s. 9d. per acre.

The following tables will show the state of agriculture in the two years 1872 and 1875, and from them it will be observed, that while the acreage under crop has slightly decreased, an increase has taken place in the numbers of live stock :— [table]

The other industries of any importance are coal-working, iron-founding, and the smelting of tin and copper, principally of imported ores.

The population, which numbered 110,632 persons in 1851, increased in 1871 by 4½ per cent., amounting to 115,710, of whom 54,921 were males, and 60,789 females. There are only two towns of any considerable size,—Carmarthen, population 10,488, and Llanelly, 13,958. Two members are returned to Parliament by the county and one by the group of Carmarthen boroughs. A court of quarter-sessions is held in the county.

Welsh is the language commonly spoken by the lower orders, and in the northern parts of the county the manners and customs of the people are as purely Welsh as in any part of the principality. Of the history of Carmarthenshire it will be sufficient to say that it was occupied at the time of the Roman invasion by the Demetae, a tribe which, after the expulsion of the conquerors, soon relapsed into semi-barbarism. Owing to its natural advantages, it preserved its independance long after the northern and eastern portions of Wales had become absorbed into the English states, and the fealty paid by Howel Ddâ, its most eminent prince, to the English sovereign was more nominal than real. But the tide of Norman conquest swept over it, and was scarcely interrupted until in the 12th and 13th centuries the two Llewelyns made a gallant resistance to it. It was, however, at Carmarthen that Edward I., checked for a moment in his course, raised a new army, before which Llewelyn fled, and the independence of the county ultimately fell It was in this county that the remarkable “Rebecca” insurrection originated in 1843-4. The multiplicity of toll-gates seemed to be the original cause of this singular conspiracy. Parties of five or six hundred men, mostly mounted, armed with pickaxes, sledges, hatchets, and guns, used nightly to traverse the counties of Carmarthen, Pembroke, Cardigan, and Brecon, headed by a tall man dressed in woman’s clothes, throwing down the toll-gates, and committing other excesses; and so well did the rioters keep counsel, and so secretly did they manage their forays, that despite the exertions of the magistrates, assisted by large bodies of military sent into the districts, no effectual check could be put upon their proceedings for many months.

Carmarthenshire is rich in antiquities, and possesses the traces of three important Roman roads, besides encampments and several early British remains. The two most interesting mediaeval ruins are those of Carreg Cennin and Dynevor castles, Carmarthen, the capital of Carmarthenshire, is a parliamentary and municipal borough, and forms a county of itself with an area of 4996 acres. It is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Towy, about 5 miles from the sea. The river is navigable for small vessels; but, owing to the better access to the neighbouring borough of Llanelly, and to the increased facilities of railway communication, the Towy is not used so much for the transit of goods as formerly. The streets of the town are for the most part narrow and steep, although many of the houses are well built and of a respectable class. Part of the town stands on elevated ground, and viewed from a distance it has an imposing appearance.

The principal church is that of St Peter’s, a large plain building with a lofty square tower, containing some interesting monuments, among which is that of the celebrated Sir Rhys ap Thomas and his lady. Sir Richard Steele is buried here, but no monument marks his resting-place. There is another church belonging to the Establishment, and several dissenting chapels. There is a large and well-conducted training college here for Welsh teachers; and there are two grammar-schools on public foundations. There are also two infirmaries, and a literary and scientific institution, the lectures at which are well attended. The town also possesses a guild-hall,—a respectable stone edifice adorned with Tuscan columns, and having a covered market underneath. The county gaol is built on the site of the ancient castle. There is a granite obelisk erected to the memory of Sir Thomas Picton, and a bronze statue to General Nott, who were both natives of the town; and also a monument to the officers and men of the 23d Regiment (Welsh Fusiliers) who fell in the Crimean War.

A considerable trade is carried on by river and rail in slates, lead-ore, and tin plates, besides domestic produce. The salmon and sewin (bull-trout) fishing is also productive of some trade. The corporation consists of a mayor, 6 aldermen, and 18 councillors. It returned a member to Parliament from 1536 to the period of the Reform Act. Since that time it has been associated with Llanelly in returning one member. There are markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and several fairs in the course of the year. The quarter sessions and assizes are held here. Population in 1851, 10,524, andin 1871,10,488, (males4820, females 5668), inhabited houses, 1984.

Carmarthen, as its name denotes, was a fortified place at an early period. It is generaUy believed to be the Mari-dunum of the Romans near which two branches of the great road, the Via Julia, diverged. Upon the erection of Wales into a principality, the chancery and exchequer of the southern division were fixed here. The last time when the castle was put to use was in the Parliamentary wars, when it was garrisoned and held for Charles I. After being reduced by the Parliamentary forces it was dismantled, and both it and the old walls were allowed to go to decay. The town gives the title of marquis to the duke of Leeds.