FERRARA, a city of Italy, at the head of a circondario and province of the same name, is situated in a flat alluvial district at the junction of the Po di Volano with several minor branches of the complex water-system of lower Lombardy. At the times of greatest inundation the river rises about 7 or 8 feet above the level of the castle court, but the statement that it sometimes even reaches above the level of the roofs is an exaggeration, and the city affords an asylum to the people of the surrounding country when the district is under water. The distance from Bologna by rail is about 29 miles, and from Venice 70. As it long occupied an important strategical position as a frontier post of the papal states, Ferrara is strongly fortified by walls, bastions, ditches, and a pentagonal citadel. Within the circuit of its defences, which extend for nearly 5 miles, a large part of the area is unoccupied. In the very centre of the city stands the old ducal castle or palace, surrounded by a moat, and crowned with heavy machicolations and battlements. During the papal period it was the residence of the legate, and it is now the seat of the local authorities. The cathedral of San Paolo is a large building originally dating from the 12th century, but gutted and restored in the 17th. The west front, of which a view is given in Mr Street’s Brick and Marble Architecture, is a great screen with “three gables of about equal height covered with arcading, which increases in depth and richness of moulding and shadow to the top, where there are very fine open arched galleries.” Of the other churches it is sufficient to mention S. Francesco, S. Benedetto, S. Domenico, and S. Maria del Vado, which contain paintings by Garofalo, Dosso Dossi, Bonone, and other native artists. The palaces ...are for the most part of small architectural interest: the Palazzo dd Diamanti owes its name merely to the facets into which the stones of the front are carved. The theatre is one of the largest in Italy; and the university, or Studio Publico, has a rich numismatic collection and a library of 100,000 volumes and 1100 MSS., numbering among its curiosities autographic portions of Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso, letters of Tasso, and the original of Guarini’s Pastor Fido. Γbe house of the first of these poets is still shown in a street which bears his name; and the hospital of S. Anna is regularly visited as the scene of Tasso’s incarceration. Almost all the interest of the city lies in its past, but it shows signs of revival since the unification of Italy. A large factory for scutching and spinning hemp was established in 1874; there are two foundries and a small establishment for the manufacture of brass instruments; and the preserving of peaches is a fairly important industry. A local bank was founded in 1862 with a nominal capital of .£83,000. Besides the university, which is free, the educational establishments comprise an industrial and professional institute, a technical school, a communal gymnasium, a lyceum named after Ariosto, and a gymnasium and lyceum attached to the archiepiscopal seminary. The population in 1871 was 28,509, or, including the suburbs of San Luca and San Giorgio, 33,327. Ferrara possibly owes its existence to the invasion of Italy by Attila, and the destruction of Aquilea. It was walled by the exarch of Ravenna in 585, and became the seat of a bishop in 657. In the beginning of the 13th century, it passed into the hands of the Este family, which continued to hold it, sometimes under the pope and sometimes as independent lords, till the extinction of the main line by the death of Alphonso II. in 1597. During the latter part of this period Ferrara was the seat of one of the most cultured of the Italian courts, and its name has become for ever associated with the history of Italian literature. Its population is said to have amounted to 80,000. In 1598 it was incorporated with the papal states by Clement VII. During the period of the French supremacy in Italy, it formed part, first of the Cisalpine republic, and secondly of the kingdom of Italy; but the treaty of Vienna restored it to the pope, and granted the Austrians the right of maintaining a garrison. In 1859 it was incorporated in the general kingdom of Italy.
[752 words — estimated reading time: 5 minutes]
