ASTURIAS, one of the ancient provinces of Spain, formerly (from 1388 downwards) conferred as a principality on the heir-apparent to the throne. By the new division of Spain in 1833, the province took the name of Oviedo, though not to the exclusion, in ordinary usage, of the older designation. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Biscay, on the S. by Leon, on the W. by Galicia, and on the E. by Santander, which is now incorporated with Old Castile. It consists of a portion of the northern slope of what is properly a part of the Pyrenean system, and is covered in all directions with offshoots from the main chain, by which it is almost completely shut in on all sides. Only a few of the passes across the mountains are practicable for carriages, and most of them are difficult even for horses. Along the coast there is a narrow strip of level ground, which consists largely of bare and moor-like reaches, covered with furze. The province, as might be supposed, is watered by numerous streams and rivers, which have hollowed out beautiful and picturesque valleys; but owing to the narrowness of the level tract, their courses are short, rapid, and subject to floods. The most important is the Nalon or Pravia, which receives the waters of the Caudal, the Trubia, and the Narcea, and has a course of 62 miles; after it rank the Navia and the Sella. Along the whole extent of the coast, a distance of 130 miles, there is not one good port. In that of Riba de Sella a large frigate may anchor, and Gijon will admit a vessel drawing 16 or 17 feet of water; but the entrance is in both cases difficult and dangerous. The climate of the district is generally mild, but overcharged with humidity, and in the higher regions the winters are protracted and severe. The broken character of the surface ...prevents anything like extensive agricultural industry, but abundant pasturage is found in the valleys. The wheat crop frequently fails. Rye succeeds better, and is often mixed with the maize which forms the principal food of all but the higher classes. Chestnuts—here, as elsewhere in Spain, an important article of diet—are very abundant on the hills, and the tree supplies valuable timber. Other timbertrees, such as oak and beech, are found in the mountains, along with various medicinal plants, such as hellebore, angelica, and valerian. Apples are abundant, and cider forms the common drink of the people; but little attention is paid to vines. The horses of Asturias are specially gentle and sure-footed, ranking among the best in Spain, and excelling those of Andalusia in strength, though surpassed by them in beauty. Wild deer, boars, and bears are not uncommon among the mountains; and the sea-coasts, as well as the streams, abound with fish of various kinds, including salmon and lampreys, which are sent to the markets of Madrid.
With regard to mineral wealth, Asturias can no longer boast, as it did in the days of the Romans, of satisfying the quest of the “pale seeker after gold,” but it possesses valuable coal-measures, which are worked at Langres, Mieres, Santo Firme, &c., and furnish a supply to Cadiz, Carthagena, and other ports in the Mediterranean. The yield in 1868 was 2,720,000 met. quintals, or upwards of 267,000 tons. Beneath the coal-beds there is frequently a large development of hematite or iron ore; copper mines are worked in the neighbourhood of the river Aviles; and lead, magnesia, arsenic, cobalt, lapis lazuli, alum, antimony, jet, marble, and rock-crystal are found in various parts of the province, while amber and coral are gathered along the coast. Fuel of various kinds being plentiful, several manufactories of copper utensils are maintained, which supply some parts of Leon and Castile with kettles, pots, and similar articles. There used, besides, to be a large royal cannon-foundry near Oviedo. Coarse cloth is manufactured in the province, but not in sufficient quantity to supply the inhabitants. The roads in Asturias are not of a very satisfactory description, with the exception of the Camino real, or royal highway, leading from Gijon to Leon and Madrid, which was projected by Jovellanos,—himself a native of Gijon,—and cost so much that Charles V. inquired if it were paved with silver. It is carried by means of bridges and embankments over every impediment of a rugged and mountainous territory. A railway has been formed from Gijon to Langres, about twenty-five miles inland, where there are mines; and a more important line uniting Gijon to Leon has for long been “in course of construction.”
The capital of the province is Oviedo, and the other towns of importance are Gijon, Aviles, Llanes, and Luarca. Ten miles E.S.E. of Oviedo is the collegial church and sanctuary of Covudonga, famous for its connection with the struggle of Pelayo against the Moors. The people of Asturias have been called the Swiss of Spain: they are robust, patient, and hardy; unenterprising, but laborious; hospitable to strangers, and enthusiastic lovers of their country. Like the Swiss, they leave their homes in large numbers, and make a living in the southern cities as servants and water-carriers, the married women even often hiring themselves as nurses in Madrid and elsewhere. The native dialect is called Bable, and among other distinctive marks employs f for the usual Spanish h in many words, thus approaching nearer to the original Latin. There is a special clan among the Asturians called the Baqueros, who lead a nomadic life, tending their cattle in winter on the coast, and in summer on the mountains of Leytariegos. They never marry beyond the bounds of the tribe. The ancient Asturians or A stures—so called, it is supposed, from the old Spanish root ast, a hill-fortress—were in possession, not only of the present province, but also of what is now the northern part of Leon, where they have left their name to the city of Astorga. The district south of the Cantabrian mountains was subjugated by the Romans about 25 b,c., but the warlike natives maintained their independence in the north. And long after, when the rest of Spain was in the hands of the Moors, this rugged region was a refuge to the otherwise vanquished race, which at length acquired strength to break forth from its fastnesses and beat back the invader.
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