The country is generally mountainous, being traversed by lofty ranges of the Atlas system, which run nearly parallel to the coast, and rise in some places to the height of upwards of 7000 feet. These are commonly divided into two leading chains, which are distinguished as the Great and Little Atlas. The former, which is the more southern and bordering on the Sahara, contains some of the highest points in the country. The Little Atlas or Maritime Atlas, as it is sometimes called, lies between the sea and the Great Atlas, and is composed of numerous diversified ranges generally of no great elevation. A number of smaller chains lie between these principal ones, and also between the latter and the sea, forming so many ascending steps or degrees. These principal ranges are connected by numerous transverse ones, thus forming extensive table-lands and elevated valleys, with no connection between them but the intervening heights. Occasionally the principal ranges are broken by deep defiles and narrow valleys. The maritime region presents numerous narrow valleys, each carrying down to the sea its mountain stream. In some parts the mountains rise abruptly from the sea, in others a tract of flat land intervenes between the mountains and the coast, and this is usually marshy, but sometimes fertile and well cultivated. There are a number of extensive plains near the coast, one of the most important of which is that of Metidja, commencing on the eastern side of the bay of Algiers, and stretching thence inland to the south and west. It is about 60 miles in length by 10 or 12 in breadth. Another great alluvial plain extends south and west for many miles from the vicinity of Bona. A third similar plain lies to the southeast and south-west of Oran, and south of Mostaganem is the plain of Shellif. The coast is generally steep and rocky, abounding in capes and gulfs, but very deficient in good harbours, and even in secure roadsteads, in consequence of its exposure to the north winds.
The rivers are numerous, but the majority of them have short courses. They mostly rise in the mountains near the coast, and rush down with great impetuosity through deep and rocky channels, presenting the character of mountain torrents. During the rainy season they are much swollen, so as to render communication with different parts of the country extremely difficult. The most important river, both from the length of its course and the volume of its waters, is the Shellif, which, rising in the northern slopes of the Djebel Amur, flows first north and then west till it empties itself into the Mediterranean near Mostaganem after a course of 370 miles, during which it receives numerous tributary streams. The Seybouse is formed by the union of several small streams in the interior of the province of Constantine, south-east of the town of that name, and after a course of about 120 miles falls into the Mediterranean near Bona. The Summam, which contains the greatest body of water after the Shellif, rises in the interior of the province of Algiers near Aumale, and pursues a generally north-east direction to its mouth near Bougie. The Rummel, formed of several small streams south of the town Constantine, passes that town and pursues a north-west direction to the sea. Among the less important rivers which empty themselves into the Mediterranean are the Harrach, Isser, Mazefran, Tafna, and Macta. Besides these, there are a number of streams in the interior, but they are less known and are generally dry except in the rainy season.
Algeria abounds in extensive lakes and marshes. Of the lakes in the northern part of the country, near the coast, the principal are,—the Fezara 14 miles south-west of Bona; the two lakes Sebkha and El Melah south of Oran; the three small lakes in the immediate vicinity of Calle, and several others. In the southern parts of the country are the extensive lakes of Chott-el-Harbi or Western Chott. the Chott-el-Chergui or Eastern Chott; the Zarhez-Gherbi and the Zarhez-Chergui; the Grand Sebkha-el-Chott, and a number of others. These are mostly dried up in summer, leaving a thick stratum of salt. Many of the marshes, especially in the neighbourhood of the larger towns, have been drained by the French, and the climate has thus been rendered more salubrious. There are also a number of warm mineral springs, containing principally salts of lime, which are used with success by the Arabs in several kinds of disease. Some of these are in the vicinity of Calle Bougie, Milianah, &c.
Algeria is divided by a line running nearly east and west into two distinct zones, called by the natives the Tell and Sahara. The Tell constitutes the zone bordering upon the Mediterranean, and is the cultivated land—the land of corn. It consists of a series of fertile basins, yielding almost exclusively corn of different kinds, especially wheat and barley. Some parts of it are extremely fertile, but at the same time flat and uniform. The chains separating the basins are clothed with timber, and peopled by the Kabyles. The Sahara lies to the south of the Tell, and is the region of pastures and of fruits. Hence, while the inhabitants of the Tell are agriculturists, those of the Sahara are shepherds and gardeners. The Sahara is sometimes spoken of as a desert, at other times as the country of dates. It may properly be divided into two regions; the northern is mountainous, but at the same time more fertile, better watered, and more populous than the other, which, bordering on the Great Desert, consists chiefly of oases of greater or less extent. The villages of the Sahara are surrounded by belts of fruit trees, of which the palm is the chief, though there are also pomegranate, fig, apricot, peach, and other trees, and vines. On the mountain ranges near the coast are extensive forests of various species of oak, pine, cedar, elm, ash, maple, olive, &c. The cork tree is also very common. The trees, especially the cedars and oaks, are frequently of gigantic size. Great injury is often done to the forests by the people annually burning up the grass of their fields. In this way extensive forests are sometimes consumed. The want of roads and navigable rivers has prevented the French from deriving much benefit as yet from the forests. Besides wheat and barley, the cotton plant, sugar-cane, and tobacco are extensively cultivated.
The animal kingdom presents little calling for notice. Lions, formerly very plentiful, are now extremely rare; leopards, panthers, jackals, and hyaenas are still common; and monkeys and apes are numerous. The wild boar is found in the oak forests, and the brown bear in the higher parts of the country. There are also various species of antelope. Of the feathered tribes, eagles, vultures, hawks, and owls are common; snipes, curlews, plovers, storks, and herons frequent the marshy parts; and the ostrich has its habitat in the desert. Among the reptiles are various species of serpents, tortoises, turtles, lizards, &c. Locusts are common, and sometimes do great damage to the crops. One of the severest invasions of these pests ever known occurred in 1866, when the crops were nearly all destroyed, and the loss sustained by the colonists was estimated at £800,000. The coast is rich in coral and sponges, and the obtaining of these forms a considerable branch of industry. The chief wealth of most of the Arab tribes consists in their sheep, of which they frequently possess immense flocks; camels are also common, but the horses and mules are more esteemed, and are noted for their excellence.
From its position, Algeria might be supposed to enjoy a warm climate; but the temperature varies considerably in different parts, according to the elevation and configuration of the country. In the northern districts the climate very much resembles that of the south of Spain, while in the Sahara the heat is often excessive. In the more elevated regions the winter is frequently very severe; but along the coast the temperature is mild, very rarely sinking to the freezing-point even in winter, when heavy rains are of frequent occurrence. Dr Shaw knew the thermometer reach the freezing-point only twice during twelve years’ residence at Algiers. The coldest month is January, the hottest August. The rains prevail from December to February; the temperate season continues from March to June, and the hot season lasts from July to November. The mean annual temperature of the town of Algiers is about 66.5° Fahr.; being for the coldest month 48°, and for the hottest 83°. During summer there is a great difference between the day and night temperature, especially in the inland districts. The simoom or hot wind of the desert sweeps at intervals over the country, between May and September, impregnating the air with fine sand from the desert. In general, with the exception of places in the vicinity of the marshes, Algeria possesses a healthy climate. Ophthalmia, however, is very common, and elephantiasis is by no means an unusual disease, owing to the want of cleanliness among the country people.
Besides the Europeans there are eight distinct races of inhabitants in Algeria—(1.) The Kabyles or Berbers, the descendants of the aboriginal inhabitants of the country, constitute a large portion of the entire population. They occupy chiefly the more elevated and mountainous parts, but numbers of them also inhabit the plains and valleys. They are described as an active, industrious race, living in villages, and principally engaged in agriculture and the cultivation of fruit trees. They also make their own agricultural implements, guns, gunpowder, leather, carpets, &c. (2.) The Arabs are a very numerous class, and inhabit principally the southern parts of the country. Some of them are cultivators of the soil, and live in villages in the neighbourhood of the towns; but the majority of them have no fixed habitation, dwelling in tents and moving about from place to place. These are the Bedouins or nomadic Arabs, and are the most unsettled and turbulent of the Algerine population. (3.) The Moors, a mixed race, inhabit the towns and villages chiefly on or near the sea-coast. (4.) The Jews are also to be found in the towns, and are engaged in mercantile pursuits. (5.) The Turks, though long the dominant race, were never very numerous, and since the French conquest they have nearly disappeared. (6.) The Kolougis are the descendants of Turks by native women, and constitute a considerable proportion of the inhabitants of Algiers and other towns. (7.) The Negroes were originally brought from the interior and sold as slaves, but slavery now no longer exists. (8.) The Mozabites are an African race, to be found inhabiting the coast towns, and chiefly engaged in manual labour. They are described as an honest, industrious, and peaceable people.
The European civil population of Algeria amounted to only 45,000 persons in 1840, and in 1845 it had increased to 75,867. In Dec. 1849 it had risen to 112,607, of whom 58,005 were French, 6943 Maltese, 33,659 Spaniards, 6986 Italians, 2515 Germans, 1253 Swiss, and 3246 of other nations. According to the census of 1861 the entire population of Algeria was 2,966,836, of whom 2,374,091 were nomadic native races, 112,229 French, and 80,517 other Europeans. In 1866 the entire population was 2,921,246, of whom 2,434,974 were of indigenous wandering tribes, 217,990 Europeans, and 251,050 natives settled in towns. Of the Europeans, 122,119 were French, 58,510 Spaniards, 16,655 Italians, 10,627 Maltese, and 5636 Germans. In the civil territory the entire population in 1870 is given as 478,342, of which 121,629 were French, 97,913 other Europeans, 33,117 Jews, and 225,693 Mahometans.
When under the dominion of the Turks, this country was governed by a dey, and divided into four provinces— Algiers and Titterie in the centre, Tlemcen in the west, and Constantine in the east. The last three were governed by beys under the dey. At present it is divided into three provinces—Algiers in the centre, Oran in the west, and Constantine in the east. Till 1871 the country was entirely under military rule, but in that year various important reforms were introduced; and in place of the former military governor a civil governor-general was appointed to administer the affairs of the colony, and to direct the action of both civil and military authorities. He is invested with legislative powers in civil matters; but in all important cases he has to take the advice of a colonial council, the members of which are appointed by the French government. The power of the governorgeneral, however, extends only over the settled districts. In the thinly-populated parts, and the districts where the nomadic tribes are chiefly found, military rule still prevails. The three provinces are subdivided into twelve departments, at the head of each of which is a prefect, and under him are sub-prefects who rule over smaller divisions. By an Act of 14th July 1865, the natives, both Mahometan and Jewish, were declared entitled to the rank and prerogatives of French citizens, on placing themselves completely and absolutely under the civil and political laws of France, and thus were made admissible to all the grades in the army and navy, and to many posts in the civil service of the state.
In 1840 the revenue amounted to 5,610,706 frs. and the expenditure to 7,206,372 frs.; in 1850 these were respectively 19,632,271 frs. and 27,959,358 frs.; in 1860, 38,908,900 frs. and 39,471,372 frs.; and in 1870, 45,360,859 frs. and 51,762,316 frs. or £1,814,434 and £2,070,492. This expenditure does not include the cost of the maintenance of the army, the expenditure for public works, and other large sums disbursed by the home government. In the French financial estimates for 1873 the home expenditure for Algeria was set down at 24,496,109 frs. or £979,844, and the revenue derived from the colony at 19,008,584 frs. or £760,343. According to a statement made in the French legislative assembly in 1864, Algeria had cost the mother country three milliards of francs, or £120,000,000 in money and 150,000 lives. The French army in Algeria numbers about 60,000 men, and consists of two classes, namely, French troops, who remain there for a certain number of years, and then return to France; and native troops, who never quit the country except for fighting purposes.
Algeria in the time of the Romans was noted for its fertility, and this is still the character of the cultivated parts of the country. Many parts only want water to render them fertile, and the government has lately sunk a number of Artesian wells with the most beneficial results. The principal grain crops are wheat and barley. In 1866 there were in the three provinces 4,163,367 acres of land under different kinds of grain, and the produce amounted to 2,802,208 quarters; 28,132 acres of vineyards, 14,266 acres under cotton, 5957 under flax, and 9793 under tobacco. In the province of Algiers the total area of land under cultivation with cereals in 1868 was, in the civil portion, 178,642 acres, of which 120,286 were cultivated by Europeans; and in the military portion, 808,890 acres. The total yield in the former case was 266,578, and in the latter 668,666 quarters. These figures do not include other agricultural produce, such as beans, maize, &c, of which about 277,062 quarters were produced by 99,503 acres. The produce of tobacco throughout the country was estimated at 6,845,000 lb. Olives are grown largely and almost exclusively in the mountains of Kabylia.
In that portion of the district included in the province of Algiers the quantity of fruit gathered is estimated at over 100,000,000 lb. At present not much attention is given to this article of production; but there can be no doubt that with more care and attention Algeria might become one of the best olive-producing countries in the world. Oranges are grown to a considerable extent, and the trade in this article is increasing. The vine is cultivated; but the produce is chiefly for home consumption, and it has scarcely yet become an article of export. In the province of Algiers in 1868 about 1,350,000 gallons of wine were produced. During the same year the exportation of cork from the colony amounted to £63,932. The most important fibre is the crin vegetal, or vegetable horse hair, produced from the dwarf palm (Cham oe rops humilis), with which a vast proportion of the uncultivated parts of the country is covered. Throughout the entire colony, fibre to the value of £89,332 was exported in 1868. The alpha fibre or esparto grass of Oran ranks next in importance, and is largely used in the manufacture of paper. During the American war the cultivation of cotton was extensively earned on, but since the close of the war it has very much fallen off. flax is cultivated to a considerable extent in some parts. The rearing of the silk-worm is also prosecuted.
Although the mineral wealth of Algeria is enormous, mining operations have not hitherto been carried on very extensively. The most important mineral products are iron, copper, lead, mercury, and antimony. During 1868 the iron mines in the province of Constantine turned out about 240,000 tons of ore, valued at £486,672, being an increase of £185,532 as compared with the preceding year. Nearly the whole of this was from the mine of Ain Mokra or Mokhta-el-Hadid, which yields on an average 200,000 tons of ore per annum. The ore contains 65 per cent. of the metal. Lead ore to the value of £125,745 was exported during that year.
The trade of Algeria has very much increased since it became a French colony. The imports, which in 1831 amounted to only £280,000, rose to £1,600,000 in 1844, to £3,249,377 in 1854, and to nearly £4,500,000 in 1863. The exports, however, have not grown in proportion; and during the ten years preceding 1863 they never exceeded from 1½ to 2 millions sterling. In 1865 an Act declared the navigation not only between France and Algeria but also between Algeria and foreign countries open to all nations, and abolished various oppressive taxes affecting foreign shipping. The following year these privileges were extended: the coasting trade was thrown open and free navigation permitted, tonnage duties on foreign shipping were abolished, and raw manufactured goods entering France free of duty had the same advantage conceded to them in Algeria. Algerian products might enter France free of duty, and the same privilege was accorded to French products in Algeria, sugar excepted. In 1868 the imports amounted to £7,706,574, which was an increase of £199,494 over the previous year. The proportions received from the different countries were—France, 75 percent.; Turkey, 8∙44; Russia, 4∙29; Spain, 3∙99; Great Britain, 3∙54; Italy, 2∙56; Barbary States, 1∙40. The imports from Turkey and Russia are exceptionally high, owing to the necessity of obtaining grain supplies from these countries in consequence of a failure in the crops. The principal ports of import were—Algiers, 40∙43 per cent.; Oran, 33∙33; Philippeville, 15∙04; Bona, 7∙01; Mosta-ganem, 2∙33. In 1869 the imports amounted to £7,332,192, and in 1870 to £6,907,628. The principal imports are cotton goods, wines, spirits, sugar, glass, crystal, cheese, salt-fish, soap, &c. The total value of the exports during 1868 amounted to £4,122,772, being an increase of £236,293 as compared with 1867. The proportions sent to the different countries were—France, 79∙20 per cent.; Spain, 11∙68; Great Britain, 5∙84; Italy, 1∙80. The principal exports are sheep, oxen, skins, wool, tobacco, flour, fresh and dried vegetables, olive-oil, flax, cotton, ores, crin vegetal. In 1869 the total exports amounted to £4,438,045, and in 1870 to £4,978,250. The overland trade between Algeria and its neighbours, Marocco and Tunis, now begins to assume some importance. The number of vessels that entered and left the various ports in 1868 was 8740, of an aggregate burden of 1,664,513 tons, and manned by 16,173 men. This is an. increase over the previous year of 18∙40 per cent. as regards the number of ships, and of 12∙63 per cent. as regards the tonnage. As engaged in the direct trade with Britain, there entered 99 British vessels with an aggregate of 17,940 tons, and cleared 109 British vessels with an aggregate of 12,523 tons. Besides these there were British vessels engaged in the direct or carrying trade with other countries, of which entered 125 with an aggregate burden of 14,972 tons, and cleared 106 with an...