One of the finest districts in the country is that of Uje, which is inhabited by the Ghamergu tribe. The labour is chiefly performed by female slaves, who, besides their other labours are obliged to perform the perilous task of guarding the growing crops against animal depredators. The rice and wheat are excellent, but are grown in small quantity. The grain which forms the staple food of the people, is a species of millet called gιιssub, which they form, not into bread (an article here entirely unknown), but into a species of paste, which, by the addition of butter and honey, forms the highest boast of Bornu cookery. Cotton and indigo grow wild, and afford the materials for the cloths finely dyed with blue stripes, which form the staple fabric of the country. Onions and water-melons are almost the only vegetables, aud besides tomatoes the only fruits are a few limes aud figs. The prevailing bush is the Asclepius giga,ntea, and the woods consist largely of acacias and tamarinds. The caoutchouc tree is very common, but its juice has not as yet been utilized by the inhabitants. All the domestic animals are reared, and there are very numerous herds of oxen, possessed chiefly by the Shuwa tribe. Animal food is thus very cheap, and forms a large proportion of the ordinary diet.

Wild animals, in great numbers, find both food and cover in the extensive districts of wood and marsh. Lions, giraffes, elephants, hyenas, crocodiles, and hippopotami are common; and antelopes, gazelles, ostriches, and various other animals are pursued as game. The country abounds with bees; and the honey, though only partially collected, forms one of the chief Bornuese delicacies. The climate, especially from March to the end of June is oppressively hot, rising sometimes to 105° and 107°, and even during most of the night not falling much below 100°. In May the wet season commences, with violent storms of thunder aud lightning. In the end of June the rivers and lakes begin to overflow, and for several months the rains, accompanied with sultry weather, are almost incessant. The inhabitants at this season are severely afflicted with fever and ague, which carry off great numbers. In October the rains abate; cool, fresh winds blow from the west and northwest; and for several mouths the climate is both healthful and agreeable.

The leading people of the country, called Bornuese or Kanuri, preseut a perfect specimen of the negro form and features, having large mouths, thick lips, and broad noses, but good teeth and high foreheads. The females add to their want of beauty by extensive tattooing; they also stain their faces with indigo, and dye their front teeth black and their canine teeth red. The law allows polygamy, but even the richest have seldom more than two or three wives. The marriage ceremonies last for a whole week, the first three days being spent in feasting on the favourite national dishes, and the others appropriated to certain symbolical rites. The favourite amusement is to watch the wrestling of slaves taken in war from the neighbouring nations. Another amusement is a rude game bearing some resemblance to chess,· played with beans and holes in the sand. The Mahometan religion is universally professed in Bornu, and with bigotry and violence. The prevailing language of the people is known as the Kanuri. It has no affinity, according to Dr Barth, with the great Berber family. A grammar was published in 1854 by S. W. Koelle, as well as a volume of tales and fables, with a translation and vocabulary.

The pastoral districts of the country are occupied by the Shuwas, who are undoubtedly of Arabian race, and speak a well-preserved dialect of that language. Of the date of their immigration from the East we have no knowledge; but they were in the country as early as the middle of the 17th century. Their total number is from 200,000 to 250,000, and they are divided into numerous distinct clans. Their villages in general consist of rudely-constructed huts, of an exaggerated conical form. Another tribe, called the La Salas, inhabit a number of low fertile islands in Lake Chad, separated from the continent by channels which those who know the tracts can ford on horseback.

The military force of Bornu consists almost entirely in cavalry, amounting to about 30,000, who are mounted on heavy steeds, which, as well as their riders, are frequently cased in light iron mail. The Shuwas, however, are clad only in a light shirt, and mounted on small unseemly nags, and the Kanembu spearmen are almost naked, and fight with shield and spear. Camels and oxen are used for conveying the baggage. The sheikh of Bornu is surrounded by a mounted body-guard, who likewise compose his principal nobles and chiefs. It is indispensable to the chief of rank that he should possess a huge belly, and when high feeding cannot produce this, padding gives the appearance of it. Notwithstanding the heat of the climate, the body is enveloped in successive robes, the number indicating the rank of the wearer. The head likewise is enclosed in numerous turbans.

The towns are of considerable size. They are surrounded with walls 35 or 40 feet in height, and 20 feet in thickness, having at each of the four corners a triple gate, composed of strong planks of wood, with bars of iron. The abodes of the principal inhabitants form an enclosed square, in which are separate houses for each of the wives; the chief's palace consists of turrets connected together by terraces. These are well built of a reddish clay, highly polished, so as to resemble stucco; the interior roof, though composed only of branches, is tastefully constructed. Kuka (or Kukawa, as it is called from its consisting of two distinct parts) is situated near the western shore of the lake, and has a population of 60,000. Still more populous is Ngornu, Angornou, or Gornu (the town of the “Blessing”), which lies about 18 miles to the south-east. It carries on a large trade, and contains about 50,000 inhabitants. On the Waube or Yo are still to be seen extensive remains of Old Bornu or Birni and Gambarou or Ghambaru, which were destroyed by the Fulbe about 1809. Among the other towns of more or less importance are Alaw, where Edris Alawoma, the famous king of Bornu, is buried, Alamay, Allauna, or Kabshari, Borzani, Lamiso, Mashena, Uje Maidugari, Uje Maibani, Wushek, and Yo.

The history of Bornu goes back only to the 9th century of our era, and its early portions are very fragmentary and dubious. The first dynasty known is that of the Séfuwa or descendants of Sef, which came to the throne in the person of Dugu or Duku, and has its capital at Njimiye in Kanem. Mahometanism was adopted about 1086 by the ruling monarch, Dûnama Ben Humé, and has since continued the religion of the country. From 1194-1220 reigned Selma or Abd-el Jelil, under whom the power of the kingdom was greatly extended; and Dûnama, his successor, was also a powerful and warlike prince. In the following reigns the prosperity of the country began to diminish, and in 1386 the dynasty was expelled from Njimiye, and forced to seek refuge in the western part of its territory by the invasion of the Buläla. Mai Ali Ghajideni, who founded the city of Birni or Ghasrggomo, on thelliverWau,rendered his country once more redoubtable and strong. His successor, Edris, completely vanquished the Bul<ila and subjugated Kanem; and under Mahomet, the next monarch, Bornu reached its highest pitch of greatness. A series of for the most part peaceful reigns succeeded till about the middle of the 18th century, when Ali 0marmi entered upon a violent struggle with the Tuaricks or Imoshagh. Under his son Ahmed (about 1808) the kingdom began to be harassed by the Fulbe or Fellatah, who had already conquered the Haussa country. Expelled from his capital by the invaders, Ahmed was only restored by the assistance of the fakir Mahomet el-Amin el-Kanemi, a mere private individual, who, pretending to a celestial mission, hoisted the green flag of the prophet, and undertook the deliverance of his country. The Fellatahs appear to have been taken by surprise, and were in ten months driven completely out of Bornu. The conqueror, having the army wholly devoted to him, might probably have, with little difficulty, assumed the sovereign power. More moderate, and perhaps more prudent, he invested the nearest heir of the ancient kings with all the appearance and pomp of sovereignty,—only reserving for himself, under the title of sheiklq all its reality. The court of the king or sultan was established at New Bornu, or Birni, which was made the capital, the old city having been entirely destroyed during the Fellatah invasion; while the sheikh, in military state, took up his residence at the new city of Kuka. Fairly established he ruled the country with a rod of iron, and at the same time inspired his subjects with a superstitious notion of his sanctity His zeal was peculiarly directed against moral or religious offences. The most frivolous faults of females, as talking too loud, and walking in the street unveiled, rendered the offender liable to public indictment, while graver errors were visited with the ’most ignominious punishments, and often with death itself. Kanemi died in 1835, and was succeeded by his son, Sheikh Omar, who altogether abolished the nominal kingship of the Sefuwa. The intercourse of Europeans with Bornu has, during his reign, been for the most part satisfactory as well as frequent. The expectations entertained at various times of opening up a valuable commerce with the people have not been as yet realized, and it seems likely, from the latest reports, that before long the traveller in Central Africa will have little to hope or fear from the sheikh of Bornu. Dr Barth, who was at Kuka in 1851, foreboded this decay; and Dr Nachtigal, who in 1870 conveyed the friendly presents sent by King William of Prussia, in acknowledgment of the sheikh’s kindness to so many German explorers, writes thus in December 1872 :—

“The rapid declension of Bornu is an undeniable and lamentable fact. It is taking place with increasing rapidity, and the boundless weakness of Sheikh Omar—otherwise so worthy and brave a man— must beaι∙ almost all the blame. His sons and ministers plunder the provinces in an almost unheard of manner; trade and intercourse are almost at a standstill; good faith and confidence exist no more. The indolence of the court avoids military expeditions, and anarchy and a lack of security on the routes are the consequences. As two years ago the prince of Zinder could kill the llunioma or prince of Munio, a faithful vassal of the sheikh, and escape unpunished, the people of Khudadza have now slain the prince of GummeL The sheikh will probably take their presents as indemnification, as he pardoned the sultan of Zinder for the murder of the faithful Munioma for the sake of a few camel-loads. Most of the small princes of the western provinces of Bornu now pay an indeterminate tribute to the prince of Zinder, who on his part has no less ambition than to become master of Bornu. Thus the sheikh and the land grow poorer and poorer, and public morality sinks lower and lower.”

See Denham and Clapperton s Travels, 1828; Barth’s Travels in Central Africa, vol. ii., 1857; Ilohlfs’s Land und Volk in Africa, 1873; Petermann’s MMheil., 1871, pp 67 and 327.