GUIPUZCOA, the smallest and most densely peopled of the three Bisque provinces of Spain, is bounded on the N. by the B ιy of Biscay, on the W. by the province of Biscay, on the S. and S.E. by Alava and Navarre, and on the N.E. by the Bidasoa, which separates it from France. Its area is nearly 728 square miles, and in 1870 its estimated population was 180,743. Situated on the northern slope of the great Cantabrian chain, the province has a great variety of surface in mountain, hill, and valley; and the scenery accordingly iβ highly picturesque and romantic. The coast is much indented, and has numerous harbours, but none of very great importance; the chief are those of San Sebastian, Los Pasajes, Guetaria, Deva, and Fuenterrabia. The rivers (Deva, Urola, Oria, Urumea, Bidasoa) are all short, rapid, and unnavigable. The mountains are for the most part covered with forests of oak, chestnut, or pine; holly and arbutus are also common, with furze and heath in the poorer parts. The soil in the lower valleys is generally of hard clay and unfertile; it is cultivated with great care, but the grain raised falls considerably short of what is required for home consumption. The climate though moist, is mild, pleasant, and healthy; fruit is produced in considerable quantities, especially apples for manufacture into “zaragua” or cider. The chief wealth of the province arises from its mineral stores (iron, argentiferous lead, copper) and from its excellent fisheries, which supply the neighbouring provinces (cod, tunny, sardines, oysters). The iron, which is of excellent quality, is smelted with wood. There are also considerable manufactures of woollen and catton fabrics, paper, and lucifer matches. The people are remarkable for their fine physique, and bold manly spirit, united ...with honesty, industry, energy, and enterprise. The capital of the province is San Sebastian, with a population of 17,902 in 1876. All the other towns are small, Tolosa alone having a population at all exceeding 5000; Fuenterrabia no longer retains its former importance; Mondragon is entirely dependent on the rich iron mines in its vicinity, and Salinas, on the Deva, on its salt works. A small island in the Bidasoa, called La Isla de los Faisanes, or l’Islede la Conference, is celebrated as the place where the marriage of the duke of Guienne was arranged between Louis XL and Henry IV. in 1463, where Francis I. the prisoner of Charles V. was exchanged for his two sons in 1526, and where in 1659 “the peace of the Pyrenees” was concluded between D. Luis de Haro and Cardinal Mazarin.
The early history of Guipuzcoa, as of the other Basque provinces, is still the subject of much learned research. Never wholly subdued by the Romans, the Celtiberi in their mountain fastnesses continued to preserve their independence after the fall of the Western Empire until the times of the West-Gothic kings Leovigild (580) and Wamba (672-681). Nominally subject to Charlemagne at a later period, they were prompt to avail themselves of the first opportunity to assert their full independence; their alliance with the Moors, and its results at Roncesvalles are prominent facts in mediaeval history. About the 11th century the inhabitants of the Basque districts emerge as organized into a somewhat free confederation of detached republics, owning allegiance to a senor or lord, but under definite constitutional guarantees (fueros). In 1202 Guipuzcoa accepted as its lord Alphonso VIII. of Castile, and for many centuries it ranked as a distinct “senorio” attached to the Spanish crown. The last of its distinctive fueros was abolished in July 1876.
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